3. How to Plan Your Safari

First Things First: How Far In Advance to Book & When to Go

This always surprises people. Oftentimes, you can get in on a group tour, or book into a lodge fairly last minute, especially if there has been a cancellation.

But let's be clear: some lodges or camps, especially the smaller, more exclusive ones may book up a year in advance. And if you're planning on going over a holiday, you should be looking a year or more in advance.

Now, the more flexible you are, the better off you will be.

Safaris definitely have seasons, and this will impact how busy a location is, as well as the price they will ask.

June-July-August-September tend to be what is referred to as "high season." Additionally, depending on the location, May through October is often in the most demand.

This is dictated by a number of factors: First, the weather. Depending on the location, June in Kenya can still be wet, with long grasses, making the animals more difficult to find and see. But as the months progress, the landscape dries out, animals congregate at waterholes, and sightings improve. Likewise, in the Mara Triangle and Mara Reserve, July through October is an important time for the annual migration, and camps will book up for that.

I find that February and March are great months to go most everywhere in Kenya. It's usually fairly warm (could be hot), the sightings are good, in a typical year, there is not a lot of rain, and the crowds are lower.

I also find that October and into November can be a great time again, and for the same reasons. Additionally, the prices can be lower during these months.

Visas

Depending on your country of origin, a visa may or may not be required to enter the country. At the time of this writing, Americans are required to have an eTA (Electronic Travel Authorization). It replaces traditional visa requirements for most travelers, simplifying the entry process, and is usually available in just a few days. (WAY simpler than it used to be!) You will need dates and addresses of where you'll be while in the country, contact details, a selfie, passport information and more.

Print it out when you receive it, and bring 2 copies with you.

Parks vs. Conservancies

I talked about this somewhat in the "National Parks and Reserves" Tip of this guide.

When it comes to the Mara and surroundings, I'll book a conservancy over the park or Triangle any time. I love that they are less crowded - both in the area and at sightings. It never feels chaotic or disrespectful or like you are stressing the animals on a conservancy. The lodges/camps tend to be smaller and more exclusive, meaning much more personal, and I'm much more comfortable there. As a photographer, I appreciate being able to drive off-road (respectfully) to get better sightings and images, as well.

The trade off, of course, is that it could be more expensive in the conservancies. To me, though, there's no question as to where I prefer. There's one time I would book in the Triangle, and that is if I were going for the migration. Then, for sure, you want to be in the Triangle. And the camp I would choose for that is Enkishui camp. (see "spots")

How Many Nights to Plan For

This is an important aspect of planning to me, and to a large extent, it will depend on how much time you have available and what your budget may be.

Depending on where you are coming from, you may have long flights and many hours of time change. You also may have very expensive flights, and you want to make the cost worthwhile.

Remember, too, that you will likely spend the first night or two in Nairobi to acclimate.

Generally, I nearly always stay longer than 7 nights in camp. My ideal trip, and what I would recommend for a first-timer, is to spend 3-4 nights in your first camp, switch locations, and spend 3-4 nights in the second. Then, if you have more time, go to an entirely different area and spend another 3 nights.

This way, you are not wasting too much time changing camps, and get a good feel for different areas.

One of my personal favorite itineraries is: Nairobi Hemingways for 2 nights (unless I really want to splurge and can get a reservation at Giraffe Manor!), fly to Olare Motorogi Conservancy and stay at Kicheche Bush Camp for 4 nights, transfer by vehicle to Naibosho Conservancy and stay at Kicheche Valley Camp for 3 nights, then fly to Amboseli National Park and stay at Tortillis Camp for 3 nights. Finally, fly back to Nairobi, relax in a day room at Four Points NBO, and fly home that evening. That makes: 2 nights in Nairobi, then 4, 3, 3 nights in camps = 12 nights total.

If you have less time and funds available, personally I would skip one of the nights in Nairobi, stay at Four Points for one night, fly out to the conservancies for 3 nights each, then back to Nairobi and home. That make: 1 night in Nairobi and 3, 3 nights in camp = 7 nights total.

Another great alternative is to spend one night in Nairobi, as above, drive to Amboseli the next day and spend 3 nights, fly to a Mara Conservancy for another 3 nights, then back to Nairobi and home. This feels a little more rushed to me, but you have to decide your priorities: how much time and money you have and whether you want to see Amboseli National Park or not.

Health Concerns

About two months before you leave for Kenya, you'll need to visit your physician or travel clinic to ensure you have all recommended or required vaccinations. Likewise, they will advise you on malaria medication that you may need. Finally, they typically offer advice about food and water and how to stay safe.

Note: in almost all cases, you do not want to drink the local water, including from the tap. Many camps and lodges provide either bottled water and/or filtered water for drinking and tooth brushing.

And I recall the first time I went to Africa, I was told not to eat anything that wasn't cooked/boiled or pealed... things have changed over the years, and lodges are well accustomed to tourists now, but always consider an antibiotic from your physician and bring along an OTC anti-diarheal like Imodium or Pepto-Bismol.

Travel Insurance

Finally, it just makes sense to purchase travel insurance. This is a high-dollar trip and many things can go wrong along the way. I used to purchase World Nomads insurance (up to age 70) but now I travel enough that I simply cover all my travel with an annual policy through Allianz. Peace of mind. And in fact, many group travels require proof of coverage.