How to Order at a Cha Chaan Teng

A cha chaan teng is one of the most uniquely Hong Kong things you will experience on your trip. The name translates loosely to "tea restaurant" and these bustling, no frills, cash only diners have been feeding Hong Kong since the 1950s. They blend Western and Cantonese influences in a way that exists nowhere else in the world and the food is cheap, fast and genuinely delicious.

Walking into one for the first time can feel a little overwhelming. It is loud, it is busy, the menu is often only in Cantonese and the staff move at a pace that makes you feel like you are already holding everyone up. You are not. Just know what you are doing before you walk in.

The unwritten rules

Sharing tables is completely normal and expected. Do not wait to be given your own table if there are spare seats at someone else's. Just sit down.

Service is fast and efficient. Decide what you want before the server reaches you because they will not wait long.

Most cha chaan tengs are cash only. Have HKD on you before you sit down or you will have a very uncomfortable moment at the end of the meal. We speak from experience.

Everything comes out quickly and often all at once. Do not expect a European paced dining experience. That is not what this is and that is exactly what makes it brilliant.

What to order

French toast is a must. Hong Kong style French toast is deep fried, thick cut and served with butter and syrup. It is nothing like what you get at home and it is extraordinary.

Milk tea is the other essential order. Hong Kong milk tea is made by straining tea through a silk stocking to create an incredibly smooth, strong brew that is then mixed with evaporated milk. Order it hot or iced.

Scrambled eggs on toast, pineapple buns, Horlicks and congee are all staples worth trying. The pineapple bun contains no pineapple whatsoever, the name comes from the pattern on the baked top. John tried one on day one and went back every single morning after that.

Where to go

The Central in Wan Chai is our personal favourite and one of the most famous cha chaan tengs in the city. Get there early, have your order ready and bring cash.

Kristina's tip: Go for breakfast between 7am and 9am for the full local experience. The energy in a cha chaan teng at breakfast time is something else entirely. Loud, fast, chaotic and completely wonderful. It will set you up for the day in the best possible way.