Reckong Peo
I stopped at Reckong Peo mostly because I had to, I needed permits for Spiti, but I’m honestly glad I did. It’s one of those towns that surprises you not with beauty, but with a strange sort of groundedness. I’d advise anyone passing through to give it at least a night, especially if you’re heading towards Kalpa or deeper into Kinnaur. It’s where you get things sorted, permits, cash, snacks.

How to Get There
If you’re coming from Shimla or Rampur, buses and shared cabs will drop you right into town. The roads are dramatic, especially as you climb higher, but totally worth it for the views. Reckong Peo is also the main transit point for Kalpa, it’s barely 10 minutes away by cab.

What to Expect
This isn’t your mountain getaway kind of place. It’s busier, more real. But it’s got a heart. A local market that sells everything, cafés that surprise you with decent coffee, and that giant Buddha watching over the town, I wasn’t expecting any of that, and it made the stop feel meaningful.

For the Curious
This is where most travelers get the Inner Line Permit if they’re heading toward Nako, Tabo, or beyond. There’s a beautiful view of the Kinnaur Kailash range from here, early morning, especially, is incredible. You can also spot locals going about their day, monks, school kids, vendors, just living life in a place that often gets overlooked.

Good to Know
Everything you need before heading to remoter places is here, working ATMs, medicine, snacks, and mobile signal. And if you’re there during apple season? Don’t even think twice. Just buy them fresh. They’re ridiculous(ly delicious).