Edinburgh at Christmas Time!

Every Christmas Edinburgh hosts its iconic German Christmas Market right in the city centre - across East Princes Street Gardens, St Andrews Square and George Street.

With traditional food (hello authentic German donuts), a gorgeous hot chocolate bar, gift shops, ice skating with views of Edinburgh's stunning architecture, a ferris wheel and more- there's something for everyone.

To make a full day out you could combine the Christmas markets with the National Gallery of Scotland (located right next to the markets on Princes Street) or spend an afternoon shopping and bar hopping on George Street!

🎒 General tips for your Edinburgh trip

☔Although Edinburgh rarely gets cold enough to snow these days (often hovering at around 5ºC) it is often wet & windy - with the wind chill certainly making it feel colder than it is! 

🧥I would recommend packing a shower proof jacket and wearing one or two warm layers underneath. Showers come and go very quickly very quickly in Edinburgh, and although most of the markets are outdoors there will be some covered areas and areas with outdoor heaters. Overall it’s best to layer up, but plan to shed layers when needed!

☂️ 💨 That being said the wind in central Edinburgh can be pretty strong at times - skip the umbrella and grab a waterproof instead. 

👟Edinburgh is a pretty hilly city with some cobbled streets - and it can get icy in the winter. So if you are planning a day with a lot of walking (even going between Old Town and New Town includes a bit of a hill) I would recommend flats, sneakers or boots.

👠That being said, if you do plan to spend a day on George Street, (where some of the markets are held) that street is the ‘bougier’ area filled with cocktail bars - if you want to spend a day of your holiday dressed up nicely - that would be the place! 

🌙 Edinburgh gets dark pretty early in the winter months, on the Winter Solstice (the shortest day of the year) the sun sets at 3:40 p.m. However in the city centre and the Christmas Markets specifically there will be plenty of Christmas lights and streetlights!

💰Across Edinburgh (Markets included) everywhere accepts card - and you are actually more likely to go to places that don’t accept cash. For that reason skip getting out a lot of cash, and find a card that you can use in Scotland without fees. 

✅I find Edinburgh a very safe city and have no problem walking around at night time. However, everyone’s comfort level is different, if you feel uncomfortable there are several options to get around including Uber & Edinburgh City Cabs.

Since COVID a driver shortage was triggered, and I have personally found it much harder to get taxis on weekend nights - if you're going out on a Friday or Saturday, consider booking your taxi home in advance.

🚶 Getting to Edinburgh from the Airport 

There are two public transport options that will get you from the airport to the centre of Edinburgh. 

🕓 The tram departs around every 7 minutes from the Airport between 7 am and 7 pm and run from 6:30 to 22:50. (Outside of 7 am - 7 pm they depart every 10 minutes)

📍You will most likely want to get off the tram at West End- Princes Street, Princes Street or St Andrew Square if you are staying in the centre. However it’s a good idea to check your hotel’s webpage for information on this! 

The Airlink 100 departs every 10 -15  minutes from 4:00 a.m - 1:00 a.m (only times not serviced are after 1:00 and before 4:00 in the morning), and takes around half an hour to get to Waverley bridge in the city centre.

💼 Both the Airlink 100 bus and the tram from Edinburgh airport accommodate luggage.

🚆If you are getting the train to Edinburgh you will most likely want to get off at Waverley train station which is right in the city centre. Some routes may go through / to Haymarket (for example the London - Aberdeen service) which could potentially be more convenient if you are staying further out of the centre on the West End. 

🎄 Christmas Market Experience

The markets are an incredibly popular draw to Edinburgh, attracting locals, Scottish & U.K tourism, as well as visitors from further afield! For some the hustle and bustle is all part of the fun, but if you want to avoid crowds I would recommend going earlier in the day on a weekday. You can expect that some of the attractions, such as the rides, may have wait times, especially when the Scottish school holidays start closer to Christmas day. 

🎟️Entry to the Edinburgh Christmas market is free! However some attractions like the Ice Rink, Santa's Stories (held in St. Andrews Square) and the Ferris Wheel will require a ticket. These can be booked in advance but you will also be able to buy tickets on site - if you prefer to be a bit more spontaneous!

⌛ The markets are open 10:00 a.m to 10:00 p.m. daily with some exceptions. 

❗The markets are closed on Christmas Day, and have special hours on the 17th, 24th, 26th & 31st of December and the 1st & 4th of January.

⏰ ❗Opening times are subject to change, so it's best to keep up with @edinburghchristmas on socials for up to date information.

🌙I personally prefer the Markets at night as there is something extra magical around that time. However if you ride the Ferris Wheel or other rides during the day you will get some pretty spectacular Edinburgh views!

🐶Dogs are welcome at the market, but keep in mind that it could be crowded and there will be a lot of distracting food smells.

🍼🧸If you are visiting with a young child I would recommend either using a carrier instead of a stroller or visiting earlier in the day to make moving about easier through the crowds. That being said the markets are a child friendly environment and most people will be accommodating! 

🧼 Waverley Mall and Waverley Station, opposite East Princes Street Gardens, both have public toilets although the Waverley Mall ones cost 30p. 

Princes Street Gardens has public restrooms on the West Side by the Ross bandstand.

If you are at the George Street section of the market there will be a lot of nearby bars and restaurants, as well as public bathrooms in the St James Quarters shopping mall (this could be a ten minute walk from the far end of George Street).

💸 Budget & Costs

Edinburgh is a capital city and a popular tourist destination, therefore you can expect city centre princes to reflect that. If you want to spend a little less on your food and drinks but still get out and about I would recommend taking a day to explore areas such as Leith Walk, Lothian Road, the Cowgate and Newington. 

A full day at the market, if you get 1-2 alcoholic drinks, some lunch and go on a couple of rides will come out at around £50 per person - however as entry to the markets is free you can really spend as much or as little as you like!

One nice thing about Edinburgh and the U.K is that taxes are included in the listed price so you know how much you will be spending when you purchase. 

🍽️ Food & Drink at the Market

There are a variety of food stalls at the market, although there is a focus on traditional German market food, and Scottish cuisine. Some of the food you can get will be:

🐟🍗Grilled salmon & salt and chilli chicken

🍟Burgers & Fries

🌭Sausage, Bretzl, Spatzl and other German delicacies

🥧Traditional British & Scottish food such as: Pies, Roast Dinners, Yorkshire puddings and Haggis (Jarvis Pies have vegetarian and vegan pies listed on their website)

🧀Macaroni Cheese, Raclette stall & ‘The Cheese Stall’

🍩Donuts & Churros (including a vegan churros & coffee stall)

🥞Pancakes & Waffles

Vendors change annually at the Christmas markets, and if you have any dietary requirements it is best to check with the specific stall. All of the stalls are private businesses so prices will vary - but I would budget around £15 - £25 per person. (Smaller items such as hot dogs or a portion of fries are likely to be around £5) 

🌿There are usually plenty of Vegetarian options at the Christmas markets, however it is possible that going as a Vegan could be more challenging. That being said Vegan and Vegetarian haggis options are becoming increasingly popular around Edinburgh and it seems likely that some stalls will offer it! 

🥧Jarvis Pies, one of the vendors, has a Vegan pie listed on their website

🍩The market has a stall specifically serving Vegan Churros.

🎁 Shopping Questions

The stalls at the Market this year include a lot of Scottish vendors, as well as few from elsewhere in the U.K including Cornwall. Generally vendors change year on year- although some do return, and there are a lot of traditional German Market Christmas stalls selling decorations as well.

You can buy locally made Scottish gifts at the Design Exchange on George Street, or by visiting the market in the Tron Kirk on the Royal Mile.

📸 Photo Spots

🌝The best time to take nice photos is generally just as the sun is beginning to set around 4:00 - 4:30 p.m. This emphasises the Christmas lights, and the sky has a really nice dark blue colour- but there is still a lot of nice natural light. 

📸My favourite photo spot is walking up the Mound behind the markets and turning around at the top of the hill to get a lovely photo over Edinburgh's New Town including the Ferris Wheel, and Christmas markets.

🏰To get a nice photo featuring the castle I would recommend walking up one of the streets that perpendicularly connects Princes Street and George Street. They go on a slight upwards hill away from Princes Street and you can get a really great shot of the Castle and Princes Street Gardens from this slight downward angle.

🎡If you choose to go on the Ferris Wheel you will get some stunning views from up there. 

⛰️If you fancy a short hike - the top of Calton Hill provides amazing views over Edinburgh (only about a 10-15 minute hike, accessible from near the East end of Princes Street)

🏛️Standing by the Balmoral hotel can offer you a great shot including the Markets and the Castle!

🚶 Getting to and from the Market

👟On Foot

Where appropriate I would recommend walking to the Christmas Markets, as Princes Street is not a very car friendly and George Street will be pedestrianised for the markets. If you are staying on Princes or Rose Street this should be less than a 10 minute walk. 

🚕 By Taxi

📍There is a taxi rank near the market outside Waverley Station. Although you can hail a taxi on Princes Street, it will most likely be quicker to book one or go to the taxi rank. In general I would recommend pre-booking all taxis and uber’s during this time of year.

📍If you are getting a taxi to the Markets it is most likely that they will drop you off outside Waverley Station which will be less than a 2 minute walk away. 

📍Ubers have pick up points on the corners of Princes Street and the side streets: Charlotte Street, Castle Street, Frederick Street & Hanover Street. Be aware if you book an Uber home you will most likely have to walk to one of these spots. 

Going between the Markets (New Town Edinburgh) and the Old Town

🏰 Walking from where the markets are to the Old Town of Edinburgh should take around 15 minutes. You can go over the Mound to George IV bridge (includes a hill), or up South Bridge by the Balmoral Hotel.  🚌Alternatively you could get Lothian bus numbers 3, 30, 31, 33, 43 or X27. 

🚗 Getting around by car

If you are planning on driving around Edinburgh here are some things to consider

⛔👈 There are a lot of no left turns around the city centre which can greatly increase your journey time, (sometimes to longer than it would take to walk from A to B).

If you don’t know where these are it can be an extra stressor, and is something you have to always be scanning road signs for.

🌿 The city centre is a Low Emission Vehicle zone - so check your vehicle meets the requirements or you could get a fine. Enter your registration number on this webpage

🅿️The closest free street parking is around a 20-30 minute walk from the city centre. There is street parking available that you can pay for, but it can be as much as £8 an hour.

🚌 There are a lot of bus lanes - be aware of when they’re active, (usually around commuting times- but some are 24h) and read signs to avoid a fine

🛣️Streets may be narrower than you’re used to, and there will be a lot of cyclists, and cycle lanes! 

Congestion will be high for all of the above reasons, and increased local tourism! If you are driving your best bet is to park in St James Exchange on the east end of Princes Street, or find street parking on Melville Street in the West End (5-10 minute walk to the Markets), or street parking north of Queen Street (10ish minute walk). 

🏨 Accommodation near the markets

Tourism is a big industry in Edinburgh, and you can absolutely expect hotel prices to be higher in peak seasons - including Christmas and New Year time, but also July and August! To mitigate this, plan as far ahead as possible when booking your accommodation!

📍If you want to be in the heart of the action during Edinburgh Christmas season, your best bet is a hotel on Princes Street, where you will be walking distance from Princes Street Gardens and George Street.

🏰 Due to their location most Princes Street Hotels will offer views over the markets and toward the Castle. Some options include the Old Waverley Hotel, Hotel Indigo, Mount Royal Hotel Edinburgh, Princes Street Suites and The Caledonian.

👑 If you are feeling really fancy you could opt to stay in The Balmoral Hotel, a historic hotel and iconic feature of the Edinburgh skyline.

🐖 🪙 Some more budget friendly options, near the market, include:

• easyHotel Edinburgh on the West end of Princes Street.

• Premier Inn on the West end of Princes street. (Premier Inn Waverley, and the hub by Premier Inn on Rose Street would also be good locations)

• Travelodge Edinburgh Central Waterloo Place & Rose Street

• Code the Loft

The downsides to staying on Princes Street is that these rooms will fill up quickly and may be more expensive than the rest of the city! Additionally expect some late night noise as Edinburgh's centre gets busier on the lead up to Christmas! Due to Hogmanay celebrations clubs in Edinburgh get a special license to be open till 5 a.m. over the Christmas and New Years period. Although there are more clubs and pubs in the old town of Edinburgh, George Street and Rose Street both near Princes Street have their fair share. 

🖼️ Nearby Attractions & Activities

🎨Both the National Gallery on Princes Street, and the National Portrait Gallery on Queens Street (a further walk from the markets) are free to attend, (although a small donation to support the work of the National Galleries of Scotland is always appreciated) and no booking is required. 

☔️In case of a rainy day other nearby indoor attractions include Edinburgh Dungeons and the Fruitmarket Gallery both behind Waverley Station on Market Street. 

🥃Another immersive rainy day activity is the Johnnie Walker experience on the West End of Princes Street

🛍️George Street is home to a lot of Edinburgh’s more upscale clothes stores including Anthropologie, the Scottish Design Exchange, All Saints and more. Many shops will extend their opening hours till 8p.m or later on the run up to Christmas - but this varies store to store

🍽️ Nearby Restaurants & Bars

There are plenty of nearby restaurants along George Street, Rose Street and the surrounding side streets. Some of my favourites include:

Pubs

🍺Dirty Dicks is a very cute pub on the West Side of Rose Street (despite the name). When I used to frequent it, it was decked out in fairy lights inside and had the perfect Christmassy vibe.

🐈‍⬛ The Black Cat is another Rose Street pub. I would describe it as a slightly elevated version of your cosy, local pub, vibe.

🌹Rose Street Garden, on the East end of Rose Street, has less of a pub like vibe and more of a modern feel. It is covered in umbrellas and heaters during the winter, and feels very cosy. 

🐷The Shoogley Peg is another cosy, traditional feeling, Rose Street Pub. 

🏛️Tiles Bar in St Andrews Square. The best way I can describe this is it has a very vintage, historical Edinburgh feel. The interior is a cross between a traditional mahogany bar and a vintage bath house, and the building was built in 1890!

Bars

🍸Tipo is a great Italian cocktail and small plates bar on Hanover Street.

🍷Elios Edinburgh is a really fun little cocktail bar on George Street

🍓Bramble is a very popular and chic cocktail bar on Queen Street 

🐌Slug and Lettuce is a UK cocktail bar chain. Sometimes they offer weekday deals! 
🌸 Tigerlily is another popular cocktail bar and restaurant on George Street

Restaurants

🫒Mezze Mezze, is a great Greek restaurant on Rose Street.

🇪🇸Cafe Andaluz is a reliable Spanish Tapas restaurant on George Street.

🦞Mussell Inn Seafood Restaurant on Rose Street. Is great for good seafood, and has been an Edinburgh local for as long as I can remember! 

🍕Dough Pizza on Rose Street, is more of a casual vibe, and the seating options are limited. However, the pizza is very good!

🍝Amarone in St Andrew Square. This is a slightly more upmarket chain Italian restaurant. However the inside of the building is stunning, and I’ve always really enjoyed a meal here.

🍝Contini George Street, an amazing family owned Italian Restaurant. The interior design is also incredible!

🍝Ragu is a new Italian on the West end of George Street that I have heard great things about! 

🇮🇳Dishoom in St Andrew Square. One of the best restaurants in Edinburgh, but be aware they don’t take reservations for dinner time service, as they are so popular!

🍚I’m also yet to try Bibimbap on Hanover Street, but I have heard great things. I would recommend giving this a go if you are in the mood for Korean food.

🎄Other Festive Attractions in Edinburgh

🌟There are popular Christmas light displays at the Botanic Gardens and Edinburgh Zoo

🔥If you happen to be in Edinburgh on the night of the 29th of December this is when Edinburgh's traditional Torchlight procession takes place. Line up somewhere along the route between The Meadows and Calton Hill! The procession features street theatre, pipe bands, fire performers and Shetland's iconic Viking squad: Helly Aa' Jarl Squad.

🏰 Edinburgh Castle hosts an event: Castle of Light: Fire and Ice on select dates throughout the Festive period.

🧭 A few extra tips

🍻Unlike North American bars, many of the bars in Scotland will be bar service rather than table service so keep an eye out when you enter, for what the system seems to be.

💳Also unlike North America servers don’t take your card away to run it, but bring the card machine to you. You might get some confused looks if you try to give the server your card!

💷Apart from a few hotels the only currency that establishments in Edinburgh will accept is the British Pound. It is quite common to see tourists attempting to pay with dollars as it’s a tourist city, but unfortunately they won’t be accepted. Similarly, unfortunately the U.K changes its legal tender, and only plastic notes are now accepted. Any old paper notes from more than ten years ago are sadly no longer legal tender. This is frustrating for visitors who aren’t used to this, but staff are not allowed to accept them.

🪙Tipping culture in Scotland is slightly different to America. A lot of places will include a 10% service charge on the bill (this will always be stated on the menu and receipt). If they don't, rounding up to the nearest pound or two is acceptable for smaller bills, and 10 - 20 % is appreciated on a larger bill, depending on the restaurant style. Tipping small bills in another currency is considered rude.

🧍🧍Scottish and British people in general love a queue - pushing in front will make you very unpopular! 

🗑️Don’t litter! Edinburgh is a pretty small city which gets a lot of tourism (for example last year around 2.8 million people visited the markets, compared to Edinburgh's roughly 560,000 population) putting a strain on some public services like the bins - if you see a full bin please don’t put your trash on the ground, but carry it to the next available bin or back to your hotel.