The Aurora Bible (Everything Northern Lights)

So, you’ve decided to photograph the Northern Lights. Congrats! You’re about to go on an adventure that involves equal parts patience, preparation, and possibly some frostbite(hopefully not though, that's why you're reading this) . But don’t worry I’ve got you covered with everything you need to know, from camera gear to the right underwear (yes, it matters).

Understanding the Northern Lights

Before we get into the gear talk, let’s quickly go over what’s actually happening in the sky. The Northern Lights (a.k.a. Aurora Borealis if you want to be fancy) occur when charged particles from the sun crash into Earth’s magnetic field, creating a light show that looks like Mother Nature is showing off. Colors vary from green to purple to red, depending on the atmospheric gases involved.

Charged particles from the Sun ride the solar wind and interact with Earth’s magnetic field. When they collide with atmospheric gases, those gases emit light:

• Green (most common): Oxygen ~100–250 km

• Purple/pink: Nitrogen at lower altitudes

• Deep red (rare): Oxygen at very high altitudes

Truth bomb: Aurora are chaotic. Forecasts guide you, they don’t guarantee a show. Your job is stacking odds in your favor.

The key takeaway? The Northern Lights are unpredictable. They don’t show up on demand, and sometimes they ghost you entirely. But when they do appear, it’s pure magic.

How to Predict the Northern Lights

Okay, so how do you actually know when to go outside instead of staring at the sky like a lost tourist? Here’s how to check the aurora forecast:

1. The Kp Index (Geomagnetic Activity Level)

The Kp index is a scale from 0 to 9 that tells you how strong the aurora activity might be.

• Kp 0-2 – Stay inside. The aurora is taking the night off(Not 100% accurate though)

• Kp 3-4 – Good chance of seeing lights in high, latitude areas (Iceland, Norway, etc.).

• Kp 5+ – Boom! You’ve got a geomagnetic storm, meaning the lights may be visible even farther south.

Your Real Time Toolkit (Websites & Apps)

Bookmark these. (I keep them as home screen icons.)

Forecast & Live Space Weather

• NOAA Aurora / OVATION model (global oval + 30–60 min view)

• NOAA SWPC DSCOVR Real Time Solar Wind (speed, density, Bz)

• SpaceWeatherLive (great dashboards, Kp/T indices, solar events)

• SolarHam (sunspot/flare context and quick links)

• University of Alaska Fairbanks Aurora (models & education)

• IcelandAtNight (My GoTo dashboard)

Regional Magnetometers (substorm “nowcasting”)

• Leirvogur (Iceland) magnetometer (deviations = activity now)

• Kiruna (Sweden) / Tromsø (Norway) magnetometers (regional context)

Cloud & Weather (Iceland)

• Vedur.is (cloud layers, wind, precip)

• Yr.no (high‑res Scandinavian model)

• Windy.com (visual gaps, satellite layers)

• Meteologix / Meteoblue (extra model viewpoints)

Moon, Dark Skies & Planning

• timeanddate.com (moon phase/times)

• PhotoPills (AR night planning, moon, Milky Way)

• lightpollutionmap.info (pick darker sites)

Aurora Apps (alerts + simple dashboards)

• Aurora / My Aurora Forecast / Aurora Alerts (iOS/Android)

• I also love to use the Aurora app on iOS, it's probably also available for android.

Iceland Safety & Roads

• road.is (conditions, closures, webcams)

• safetravel.is (alerts, 112 app)

• 112 Iceland app (offline location ping to SOS)

2. Cloud Cover

This is crucial. Even if the aurora is going crazy, clouds will ruin everything. Use weather apps that show cloud cover forecasts, like:

• Veðurstofan (for Iceland specific forecasts)

• Yr.no(Norway based but good for general Arctic forecasts)

• Windy.com (Great for visualizing cloud movement)

3. Solar Wind Data (For the Nerds)

If you want to go full scientist mode, check solar wind speed and density. High speed solar wind = higher aurora chances. Look at:

• ACE Real-Time Solar Wind (NASA’s Solar Weather site)

4. Moon Phase

A full moon can wash out weaker auroras. If possible, aim for a new moon or a crescent moon phase for the best contrast.

5. Best Time of Night

Typically, the aurora is most active between 9 PM and 2 AM, but it can appear earlier or later. Be patient.

When to Go (Season, Time, Moon)

• Season: Late Aug early Apr (dark nights). Peak months: Sep–Mar.

• Night window As said above: 21:00–02:00, with frequent peaks around local midnight.

• Moon:

  • New/crescent: Best for faint aurora + starry skies.

  • Half full: Can wash out weak displays but beautifully lights your foreground. Don’t fear the moon compose smarter.

The 5 Signal Method: Know When It’s “Go Time”

Use these together. If 3+ look good, move.

1. Kp Index (0–9)

   Kp 0–2: Still possible in Iceland.

   Kp 3–4: Good odds.

   Kp 5+: Storm. Drop everything.

1. Bz (IMF Orientation) & Solar Wind

• Bz negative (–5 nT or lower) opens the gate.

• Speed > 450–500 km/s and density spikes = juice for substorms.

• Dynamic pressure jumps often precede bright bursts.

1. AE / AL (Substorm) Indices

• Fast drops in AL and high AE mean energy unloading = curtains and pulses.

1. Auroral Oval & Short‑Term Models

• If the oval bulges over Iceland on a 30–60 min model, get into position.

1. Cloud Cover (low & mid‑level)

• Clear skies trump high Kp. Chase gaps, not just forecasts.

When and Where to See Them

Best Time:

• September to March is prime time, as the nights are long and dark.

• Around midnight is usually best, but the lights can show up anytime.

• Avoid full moons if possible (unless you want an extra challenge).

Best Locations:

• Iceland (duh)

• Norway (Tromsø is a hotspot)

• Sweden, Finland, Canada, Alaska basically, anywhere near the Arctic Circle

Avoid cities, light pollution is the enemy. Get as far away from streetlights as you can. If you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, you’re doing it right.

Dressing for Arctic Photography (a.k.a. How to Not Freeze to Death)

If you think you can stand still for two hours in -10°C weather without proper clothing, you’re in for a miserable time. Trust me, being cold will ruin your experience.

Layering is Key:

• Base Layer: Thermal underwear (no cotton, go for wool or synthetic).

• Mid Layer: Fleece or down to trap heat.

• Outer Layer: Windproof and waterproof jacket or a parka if its super cold and pants.

Extremities:

• Insulated gloves (thin inner gloves help if you need to adjust camera settings).

• Thick wool socks and warm boots (frozen toes = game over).

• A hat(húfa in Icelandic, I love húfas). Preferably one that covers your ears.

Hand warmers are your best friend, stick them in your gloves and boots.

Camera & Lens: Pro Setup (Mirrorless & DSLR's)

Cameras:

• Any modern mirrorless/DSLR with clean ISO 3200–6400 works. Full frame helps, but APS‑C can also deliver excellent results.

If you think your phone’s night mode will do the trick, let me stop you right there. You need real gear for this for real pictures BUT phones can capture this, I'll make a separate guide for that, no worries.

Lenses

• Fast + wide is king.

  • 14–24mm f/1.4–f/2.8 (the faster the better for fast aurora).

  • Prime examples: 14/1.8, 20/1.8, 24/1.4.

• Carry a microfiber cloth condensation happens.

Tripod & Trigger

• Sturdy legs, ball head you can operate with gloves.

• Remote release or camera 2 sec timer.

• Turn IBIS/VR off on a tripod.

  This is non negotiable. The Northern Lights require long exposures, and even the steadiest hands will mess it up without a tripod. Get a sturdy one, wind is a thing.

Remote Shutter Release (or Timer Mode):

Pressing the shutter by hand can introduce camera shake. A remote release or a 2 second timer fixes that. Not a must have.

Power & Storage

• 3+ batteries (keep warm in inner pocket).

• Big, fast cards; always RAW.

  Cold kills batteries faster than you can say aurora borealis. Keep extras in your pockets to keep them warm.

Memory Cards:

Big ones. Shooting in RAW takes up space, and you don’t want to be deleting photos in the middle of a light show.

📱 How to Capture the Northern Lights with Your Phone

Gone are the days when you had to own a DSLR to photograph the auroras. Modern smartphones can do surprisingly well if you prepare them correctly.

1.

Use a Tripod

Even the steadiest hands can’t manage multi-second exposures. A small travel tripod will keep your phone stable and your shots sharp.

2.

Switch to Manual/Pro Mode

If your phone allows manual control:

• ISO: Start at 1600–3200.

• Shutter speed: 4–10 seconds depending on aurora brightness.

• Focus: Set to infinity (∞) if available.

• White balance: Around 3500K to keep colors natural.

3.

Use Night Mode (if no manual mode)

Many newer phones (iPhone 11+, Pixel, Samsung Galaxy) have a Night Mode that automatically extends exposure time. Keep the phone perfectly still during capture.

4.

Lock Exposure & Focus

If your phone allows it, lock both to avoid constant readjustment. This stops the camera from overcompensating for darkness.

5.

RAW Capture

If supported, shoot in RAW for more editing flexibility.

6.

Keep Warm & Manage Battery Life

Cold kills phone batteries quickly, keep your phone close to your body when not in use.

7.

Editing

Use apps like Lightroom Mobile or Snapseed to enhance details, reduce noise, and make the auroras pop without over-saturating.

Dial In Settings (by Scenario)

Starter Settings (safe bet)

• Aperture: wide open (f/1.4–2.8)

• Shutter: 4–8 s (shorten for fast curtains, lengthen for faint arcs)

• ISO: 1600–3200 (raise to 6400 if needed)

• WB: 3500–4000K (tweak later if shooting RAW)

• Focus: Manual; magnify a bright star or distant light, then tape the ring.

Fast‑Moving, Bright Aurora

• f/1.4–2.0, 0.7–2 s, ISO 3200–6400 → preserves structure/striations.

Faint, Slow Arc

• f/2.0–2.8, 8–15 s, ISO 3200 → brighter, softer curtains.

Full Moon Nights

• Lower ISO (800–1600), faster shutter (2–6 s). Moon paints the landscape.

Snow foreground

• Slightly under expose to save detail; recover in RAW.

Don’t forget

• Long Exposure NR OFF (prevents gaps between frames).

• High ISO NR OFF (do it in post).

• Use Histogram; avoid clipping the greens.

Time Lapse & Advanced Techniques

Simple Time Lapse Workflow

1. Manual exposure (as above), manual WB, manual focus.

2. Interval: 1–3 s for fast aurora, 3–6 s for slower arcs.

3. Shoot 300–1000 frames.

4. Post with LRTimelapse / Lightroom / Premiere.

5. Flicker control: avoid auto modes. Keep exposure constant.

Brightness Changes?

• If the show brightens suddenly, shorten shutter or lower ISO gradually to avoid flicker.

Star Trackers?

• Not recommended for aurora (the landscape will blur). Keep it simple.

Troubleshooting (Fast Fixes)

• Everything’s blurry: You bumped focus. Re focus on a distant light/star; tape the ring.

• Green mush, no structure: Shutter too long. Shorten to 1–4 s, raise ISO.

• Grainy mess: You underexposed. Expose to the right (without clipping), clean in post.

• Nothing shows but stars: Raise ISO to 6400 for a test, if faint band appears, build exposure.

Composition That Pops

The Northern Lights are stunning, but a good composition takes your photo to the next level.

• Foreground first. Lakes, ice, ridgelines, churches, lighthouses.

• Reflections: Any still water = instant drama.

• Verticals for pillars; panoramas for big arcs.

• Human scale: A small figure in the frame adds storytelling.

• Rule of thirds with the arc as a leading line.

• Watch headlights; position so passing cars don’t torch your exposure.

• Silhouettes: If you’ve got a friend (or yourself), try adding a human element.

And please, don’t just point your camera straight up and call it a day.

How to Stay Sane While Waiting

Here’s the thing: Northern Lights photography involves a lot of standing around in the cold, hoping the sky cooperates. Some tips for keeping your sanity:

• Bring snacks. Hunger makes everything worse.

• Listen to music. Standing in the dark gets eerie fast.

• Set up camp early. Get your camera ready before the lights appear.

• Accept that nature does what it wants. Even if the forecast looks good, the aurora might not show. That’s part of the adventure.

Locations near Reykjavik to see the lights!

Grótta Lighthouse

If you want a convenient spot to watch the Northern Lights without venturing too far, Grótta Lighthouse in Seltjarnarnes is a solid choice. Just a five-minute drive from downtown Reykjavik, this location offers dark skies and a picturesque lighthouse to add depth to your photos. However, its proximity to the city means you won’t be alone, expect to share the view with plenty of locals and tourists.

Lake Kleifarvatn

Reykjanes Peninsula has some fantastic viewing locations, and Lake Kleifarvatn is one of the best. Located about 30 minutes south of Reykjavik along Route 42, this is the largest lake in the area. By day, it’s popular with birdwatchers and hikers, but at night, it transforms into a serene Northern Lights spot. If you visit in daylight first, you can scout the perfect place to set up for the show.

Lake Hvaleyrarvatn

If you don’t want to drive too far past Hafnarfjörður, Lake Hvaleyrarvatn is a great alternative. A small car park on the western side provides easy access to a scenic walking trail along the southern shore. On a clear night, the Aurora Borealis might even reflect off the still waters, creating a magical sight.

Garður

Another gem on the Reykjanes Peninsula is the village of Garður, about an hour from Reykjavik. Here, two historic lighthouses stand at the tip of the peninsula, providing a dramatic foreground for Northern Lights photography. The older, shorter lighthouse dates back to 1897, while the taller one was built in 1944 both offer spectacular views of the auroras dancing over the ocean.

Þingvellir National Park

Þingvellir is already famous as the site of Iceland’s first parliament and the meeting point of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. But it’s also a fantastic Northern Lights location, less than an hour from Reykjavik. Standing in a place where two continents drift apart while watching the sky explode with color? Pretty unforgettable.

Hvalfjörður (My favorite)

Hvalfjörður is hands down my favorite spot to shoot the Northern Lights, mostly because there’s no one else around to ruin my long exposures with their headlights or phone screens. The fjord is like nature’s own infinity mirror, with calm waters reflecting the auroras so perfectly that sometimes I don’t know which way is up. It’s dark, peaceful, and just remote enough that you start questioning if you’re in a magical wonderland or just really, really lost. Either way, the lights always put on a show, and the mountains make sure the scenery is as dramatic as my reaction when they hit peak intensity!

Karlinn(Reykjanes)

Karlinn („The Man“) is a 50-60 m high seacliff, an eroded volcanic plug, which stands high and mighty just off the coast of Valahnúkur. Karlinn is popular spot with visitors and especially among photographers, as it is truly picturesque when the unremitting waves hit the rock.

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South Coast

• Dyrhólaey viewpoints (check closures; no cliffs in high wind)

• Sólheimajökull car park (glacier silhouettes)

• Fjaðrárgljúfur area turnouts (dark valleys; obey closures)

• Þakgil road pull offs (only in good conditions)

Snæfellsnes

• Arnarstapi / Hellnar sea cliffs (safe set backs)

• Búðir black church (iconic foreground)

• Kirkjufell from legal viewpoints (arrive early)

West & Highlands (seasonal access)

• Hraunfossar/Barnafoss area turnouts

• Kaldidalur (F550) summer only

• Kerlingarfjöll & Hveravellir (August-September only, insane skies when clear)

North & East

• Hvítserkur sea stack

• Goðafoss / Mývatn shores

• Vestrahorn & Eystrahorn (watch wind & surf)

Westfjords

• Garður near Patreksfjörður pull offs

• Rauðasandur viewpoints (sand reflections at low tide)

• Dynjandi area (respect winter access limits)

If you made it this far and want to see more of these type of articles, please consider getting my personal guide here, you can ask me questions and there is a ton of useful information about traveling in Iceland, and over 600 locations.

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