Warm Hospitality in the Albanian Alps
If you're planning to visit Lëpushë, especially for a hike to Maja e Vajushës, Kelmendi Hotel is a great place to stay. It’s not fancy or luxurious, but what it lacks in amenities, it makes up for in warmth, kindness, and a beautiful setting.
My friend and I stayed here for two nights, and it ended up being one of the more memorable stays over my past few years here.
A True Family-Run Guesthouse
The hotel is family-run, and that’s felt in the best way. When we visited, three generations were involved in running the place, from cooking and serving meals to chatting with guests and giving advice about local hikes.
Their daughter, who was home from university, handled most of the communication with guests. She was friendly, easy to talk to, and spoke excellent English. It was clear the whole family cared about making their guests feel comfortable.
Simple Rooms, Incredible Views
The rooms are basic, but the real standout is the view. The hotel looks out over the Lëpushë valley with rolling green hills and dramatic peaks in every direction. Just sitting out behind the hotel with a coffee in the morning felt peaceful and refreshing.
Getting there isn’t totally straightforward, the last stretch of road is unpaved and bumpy, and it’s best if you have at least an SUV. But once you arrive, the setting is quiet and special.
Homemade Meals Done Right
Meals are cooked fresh, using local ingredients and traditional recipes. We had hearty breakfasts and rich, flavorful dinners, all served family-style. The food was consistently good, not overly complicated, but really satisfying. One dish they served, “djathe I zier”, is one which I’ve never had anywhere else in Albania. It’s local to Lëpushë and worth a try.
A Great Starting Point to Hike Maja e Vajushës
If you’re planning to hike Maja e Vajushës, this hotel is an ideal base. The trail begins right from the village, and the hike itself is not too difficult, about 2 to 2.5 hours one way, with a great payoff at the top. It was helpful to get local advice from the hosts before setting off, although thee trail is well-marked.
Final Notes
Kelmendi Hotel isn’t a luxury hotel, but that’s not what it’s trying to be. It’s a simple, well-run mountain guesthouse in a beautiful location, with warm hospitality and great food. If you're heading up to Lëpushë and want a quiet place to stay with a personal touch, it's the best choice.
We’d definitely stay here again.
Here’s my friend, James’, vlog about our experience in Lëpushë: staying at Kelmendi Hotel and hiking Maja e Vajushës:
"The Most Underrated Village in North Albania: Lëpushë"