What you'll do
A short weekend itinerary for a relaxing getaway to a quiet onsen town.
Day 1
Make your way early to Tokyo Station (Yaesu south exit) to take the direct bus from Tokyo to Shima Onsen. This is the best option to travel to Shima Onsen using public transport. You can buy the bus ticket up to one month in advance and I highly recommend you do so! There is only one bus a day and it does tend to get fully booked.
You can book your bus ticket from here: https://japanbusonline.com/en/
Once the bus starts wind up the mountains and the scenery changes dramatically to lush mountains and beautiful foliage (in autumn) you will soon reach Shima Onsen.
You should arrive a bit after noon. I highly recommend to leave your luggage with your hotel (you won't be able to check in before 3-4pm anyways) and use the time to explore Shima Town. Since this town is so small, most shops close around 4pm so do your souvenir shopping early! Make your way slowly down the hill until you reach the turquoise Shima Potholes. (about 2km down from the bus stop)
Shima Onsen
Sightseeing
Tiny hot spring town in Gunma
Shima Onsen is a tranquil hot spring town nestled in the mountains of Gunma Prefecture. With over 40 hot spring sources, it is known for its healing waters. The town has managed to maintain its small-town atmosphere and offers a range of ryokan, public bath houses, foot baths, and hot spring water drinking fountains to enjoy.
Make your way slowly down the hill, along the local shops to your left and right, until you reach the turquoise Shima Potholes. (about 2km down from the bus stop)
Shima potholes
Sightseeing
Turquoise potholes in Shima
These stunning turquoise blue potholes can be found along the Shima River, just a short distance from Shima Onsen. Formed naturally over time by swirling river currents, these potholes are 3 meters in diameter and 4 meters deep! You can even spot small fish swimming in the river. 🐠
Just 1km upstream is Momotaro Falls. It's not the biggest waterfall Japan has to offer so make sure not to miss it!
Momotaro Waterfall
Sightseeing
Charming Japanese waterfall near bridge
Momotaro Falls is a charming little waterfall located in Shima Onsen. The waterfall gets its name from the Japanese folk tale of Momotarō, where a boy is born from a peach and goes on adventures with animal companions.
It may not be the biggest or most impressive waterfall you'll ever see, but it's definitely worth a visit. The best part? It's just a short 2-minute walk from the Shima Ōhashi Bridge, so you don't have to go on a long hike to enjoy its beauty.
If you followed this route, you should be approaching check-in time. Make your way to the iconic red bridge that inspired the Ghibli movie Spirited Away. ⛩️ Make sure to hold your breath while crossing so the gods won't notice you while you cross 🤫
Keiun Bridge
Sightseeing
Iconic red Ghibli bridge
Keiun Bridge is a picturesque red bridge located in front of the Sekizenkan Ryokan in Shima Onsen. It is said to be a model location for the iconic red bridge in the movie Spirited Away.
This bridge adds a touch of enchantment and mystery to the ryokan's surroundings, making it a must-visit spot for me! I honestly loved this spot so much and was in awe everytime I crossed it.
Time to check into your hotel and enjoy a relaxing dinner as well as some late night soaks in the hot springs.
If staying at Sekizenkan Kashoutei is out of the budget, there are other accommodations available for all kinds of budgets. Definitely make sure to still visit the oldest traditional bathhouse of Japan! It is a beautiful building and truly magical.
Sekizenkan Kashoutei
hotel
Traditional Spirited Away Bathhouse
Sekizenkan Kashoutei is one of the oldest bathhouses in Japan and the main inspiration for the bathhouse in Spirited Away. Nestled in the beautiful and tranquil hot spring town of Shima Onsen, this is the ultimate authentic Japanese experience.
While staying at Sekizenkan Kashoutei definitely falls into the luxury range, this ryokan is nothing short of amazing. With a private onsen in your room you need to worry about nothing but relax.
If you let them know at least a week in advance that you require a vegetarian or vegan meal they are happy to make arrangements for you. The traditional dinner and breakfast course were one of the best foods I ever had in Japan. If you make the long trip to Shima Onsen reward yourself by staying for one night here.
A tattoo friendly ryokan that offers hot springs as well as vegetarian and vegan food on a much smaller budget is Kashiwaya Ryokan in Shima Onsen. Rooms are spacious and the private open air onsen is a dream! This is a great alternative to Sekizenkan and the staff is truly so accommodating.
Kashiwaya Ryokan
hotel
Traditional Japanese inn in Shima Onsen
Kashiwaya Ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn nestled among trees and mountains of Shima Onsen. This area of Gunma is a truly relaxing escape from the hustle and bustle of the big cities. I am so happy that this ryokan welcomes guests with tattoo-friendly private onsens, vegan meal options, and easy access from Tokyo. (There is one bus a day leaving Tokyo station and arriving directly in Shima Onsen 3.5hrs later).