What you'll do
Day 1
If you visit in autumn, start early in your day and experience the breathtaking red maple leaves of Choenji Temple! A truly hidden gem among locals, you likely will not run into other tourists here. It gets crowded early as the light in the morning is truly the best.
Other seasons are not any less beautiful. In spring the air is filled with the fragrance of the chestnut tree and Chinese fringe tree white blossoms, while in summer you can gaze at the golden flowers of the Japanese rain tree.
Make your way here by direct train from Matsumoto and get off at Chino Station. Here, you can get a local bus to the temple and a 15min walk, but if you want to beat the masses I highly recommend to take a taxi to Choenji.
Choenji
photospot
Temple with red maple alley
Choenji is a beautiful hidden gem mostly known by locals only. In autumn, the red maple leaves create a beautiful alley and the morning light here is divine. Be early, as this spot is very popular once at peak! From Chino Station, I recommend to take a taxi if you are trying to be there early in the morning. Alternatively, the local bus takes 30mins to reach Choenji. š
Kiso is a forested, mountainous valley nestled in southern Nagano stretching as far as the borders of Gifu, known for its scenic peaks, hot springs, hiking trails and picturesque towns on the historic NakasendoĀ trail.
The most famous is the historic post town of Narai. It is very picturesque and the most preserved. Furthermore, it is the most easy to access.
From Matsumoto Station, take the Shioiri Line towards Nakatsugawa and get off at Narai Station. The journey takes about 45mins and costs 590Yen.
Hike from Yabuhara to Narai
If you have more time at your hands, I highly recommend to hike from Yabuhara to Narai-juku to fully experience the historic Nakasendo trail. This section of the pass is called "the Torii Pass".
The Torii pass hike is 8.5km long and takes roughly 2.5 hours to complete. It is quieter than the MagomeāTsumago stretch but nonetheless beautiful. The trail heads uphill from Yabuhara, past shrines and Mount Ontake views before gradually descending into Narai.
Narai-juku
Sightseeing
Historic post-town in Nagano
Narai-juku is the most popular historic post-town in Nagano Prefecture, with a vibe straight out of a historical movie set. Located on the Nakasendo highway, it offers a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of big cities. You can stroll through its narrow streets lined with traditional buildings, relax in cozy ryokans, and explore attractions like the Nakamura Residence and the picturesque Kisho Ohashi bridge. I went here at around 10am and did not find it too crowded! The train only comes every 1-2 hours so if you wait 10-15mins for the people that arrived to scatter, you get this place mostly to yourself (avoid weekends!) The best light (in autumn) was around noon. Since this sits in a valley, the town is shrouded in shadow for the rest of the day so plan accordingly if you want to take pictures here (which I highly recommend)! Narai is very easy to get to as there is a direct train connection from Matsumoto Station that takes about 40mins to get here.
Arriving in Narai, I highly recommend to take your time to explore the area. The post towns are all rather small, so it is very easy to see it all in 1-2hours. I spend some time in a cafƩ here before exploring the shrines nearby. As this is a famous post town, make sure to also stop at the post office!
One stop you should not miss is the Kiso Bridge! This bridge is one of the few traditional Japanese arched bridges spanning the Narai River. The beautiful bridge is made entirely of hinoki cypress and is one of the largest of its kind not using bridge piers in Japan! The bridge is also lit up at night from early April to late November.
The 200 Jizo (nihyakujizoson)
Sightseeing
Grieving parents adorn Jizo statues
Nearly 200 small Jizo statues, known as Nihyakujizoson, stand adorned with colorful bibs. These statues are dressed by grieving parents who have lost children, as a way to thank Jizo for protecting their little ones in the afterlife. It's a touching tribute that adds a poignant touch to this ancient serene atmosphere.
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cafe
Traditional cafƩ
The cutest and most cosy cafe in Narai that sells the best cakes! The cafƩ is housed in a traditional Japanese building with tatami flooring and a cozy atmosphere. The menu also features homemade cakes and tarts, as well as drip coffee and tea. Make sure to relax here before exploring further along the Nakasendo trail.
Narai Post Office
Sightseeing
Historic post town
As this well-preserved post town offers a glimpse into Japan's past with its samurai-era atmosphere, you can't miss the traditional post office! There is not much to do here but I really like the post boxes and just had to snap a picture as a little tributeāŗļø
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restaurant
Authentic soba restaurant
Cute little authentic soba restaurant that offers a good variety of vegan options as well! I really loved the soba set with oyaki (stuffed dumplings) with kabocha (Japanese pumpkin).
Kiso Bridge
Sightseeing
Stunning wooden bridge
The Kiso Bridge is one of the few still intact bridges made of Kiso hinoki aged over 300 years. It's the widest wooden bridge in Japan at 6.5 meters and showcases the strength and craftsmanship of hinoki wood. In the evening From April to November, bridge is also lit up in the evening which is a beautiful sight!
Izumiya Cafe
cafe
Amazing cakes
Izumiya Cafe serves some of the best cakes I have had In Japan! The way the light shines through the wooden decorations is so magical as well. The friendly staff and relaxed atmosphere make it a perfect pit stop for exploring the area.
Chosenji
Sightseeing
Serene temple with spiritual history
Chosenji is keeping the history of the Narai area alive with its 700 years of history. It is such a serene place to stroll - make sure to go inside and admire the dragon ceiling painting which is super impress. š
sagyobar by suginomori brewery
cafe
Brewery cafe with sake wagon
Sagyobar by Suginomori Brewery is not your average cafe ā it's where brewery operations and drinking come together in a cool space. I was super surprised to find this in such a remote area! Come here to sip on some top-notch sake served straight from their own Suginomori wagon. š¶
If you like to slow travel, I highly recommend to spend a night at a traditional inn in Narai-juku. There are 11 accommodations in Narai-juku, but most of them are not listed on online hotel booking platforms. If you want to book them, you will likely have to call directly.
In all of the towns there are a few (but not many) accommodations. You can also stay in other towns in the region, such as Nakatsugawa, Nagiso or even in Matsumoto. However, I personally would highly recommend to stay one night in one of the post towns to fully experience the area.
One accommodation that you can easily book online and that I would highly recommend is BYAKU Narai. Renovated from a 200-year old traditional building, you will feel like stepping back in time with the most incredible aneminites. The inn is not only absolutely beautiful, but also hosts amazing local cuisine. If you feel like delving deeper into into the local culture, this stay will not disappoint you.
BYAKU Narai ę³åå±
hotel
Beautiful ryokan in traditional setting
One of the most beautiful ryokan I have ever seen! Each guest room is housed in a historic building with its own story to tell, offering a one-of-a-kind stay in traditional Japanese surroundings. From open-air baths to hidden storehouse rooms, there's something special for everyone looking to immerse themselves in the charm of this ancient post town. The ryokan is very quiet, peaceful and offers some amazing food! This is a stay you will definitely look fondly on for a really long time š©·
Minshuku Ikariya Machida
hotel
Traditional inn on Nakasendo trail
Minshuku Ikariya Machida is a cozy, no frills and welcoming traditional inn. The hosts are very f friendly and offer a memorable and authentic experience for travelers exploring the Nakasendo trail. The shared bathrooms add to the communal vibe, if you're on more of a budget this is a great minshuku to stay in!
Why stay overnight? Narai-juku has a very different feeling once the sun sets, the light go on and most, if not all, visitors have left for the day. Please be aware that shops seem to close at 5pm at the latest. Staying overnight is also great if you are into night photography! On a clear day, you can get breathtaking views of the night sky without the light pollution of the cities.
Things to do in the evening:
Enjoy the lights at night of Narai-juku
Admire the lit-up Kiso Ohashi Bridge
Marvel at the starry night sky
Experience the sunrise in Narai-juku
Explore Narai-juku in the early morning