Raft Cove is another beach that I have been going to all my life. This was more of a local spot as it’s harder to get to. I would say this is my favorite beach on Vancouver Island. The drive there, walking the single rooty muddy trail, and making sure not to lose the trail is always worth it. There is a second way to get to the beach by paddling the Mackjack River.
This gem is a wild, windswept paradise where the rainforest meets the sea. Raft Cove feels like stepping back in time — no cell service, no noise, no crowds. Just the sound of the waves, the wind through the Sitka spruce, and the feeling that you’ve stumbled into one of the last truly wild corners of British Columbia.
The Journey There
Getting to Raft Cove is half the adventure.
From Port Hardy, it’s about a 1.5-hour drive on a mix of paved and gravel logging roads heading west toward Holberg. From there, follow the signs — they’re few, but they’re there — to the trailhead parking lot.
Turn onto Holberg Road from Highway 19 (29 km)
Turn left onto NE 60 Rd / Holberg Rd (15 km)
Slight right onto Green Acres Trailer CT / NE Main (1 km)
Sharp right onto DND Rd / San Joseph Rd / Winter Harbour Rd (3.9 km)
Slight right onto San Josef Main / San Joseph Rd (8.5 km)
Turn left onto Ashby Main
Turn left on Ronning Main, following signs for Raft Cove parking lot
The final 2.5 km trail to the beach winds through lush coastal rainforest, weaving around roots, ferns, and mossy logs. It’s often muddy (this is the west coast, after all), so wear waterproof boots and be prepared to get a little dirty. The payoff? Absolutely worth it.
Where to Launch the Mackjack River:
Note: Accessing the river needs to be done at high tide. The muddy river bottom and tree coverings make it hard to launch at lower tides. When the tide is at its highest, let it pull you out to the Pacific at the tide change. I did this once, and trust me, you don't pull your gear up the mud. Be sure to check the tide schedules for there and back out. Don't work against the tide for a more relaxed ride. This 11.7 km out-and-back trail is a moderate paddle route. The best time of year is between April and September.
Turn onto Holberg Road from Highway 19 (29 km)
Turn left onto NE 60 Rd / Holberg Rd (15 km)
Slight right onto Green Acres Trailer CT / NE Main (1 km)
Turn right onto Main St (80 m )
Turn right onto NE 60 Rd/NE Main (3.6 km)
Slight right onto S Rd (15km)
Turn right onto S Rd / Winter Harbour Rd (3.2 km)
Turn right onto West Main (5.2 km)
Continue straight onto Topnot Main (10 km)
Stay right until the dead end, and the trail is on the right.
I recommend using Gaia Maps and Backroads Maps for these areas. Download all maps as there is no service in this area.
Key Local Tips
The logging roads are active and always have the right-of-way — high-clearance 4×4 advised, extra spare tire, good road sense.
Let someone know your route before heading in — cell service is unreliable.
Check tide times if launching via the Mackjack River to Raft Cove, as water levels and access change with the tide.
Bring all gear, supplies, and knowledge — this area is remote, the terrain is wild, and you’ll want to be self-sufficient.
The Beach
The first step off the trail will take your breath away!
Raft Cove’s beach stretches nearly 1 km, a long crescent of golden sand framed by rugged headlands and endless Pacific waves. Driftwood logs scatter the shore, perfect for perching with a thermos of coffee or a good book.
It’s a surfer’s dream, a camper’s haven, and a nature-lover’s paradise — raw, unpolished, and stunningly serene.
Swimming: The surf can be strong, so it’s better for wading or tide-pooling than swimming.
Surfing: A few locals and adventurous travelers bring boards in — you’ll often have the entire break to yourself.
Beachcombing: You never know what the tide will bring — shells, sea glass, and stories.
Camping in the Wild
Camping here is rustic and unforgettable.
You’ll find several beach and forest campsites, many tucked just behind the driftwood line or sheltered beneath the trees. There are no services — no water, no firewood, no garbage bins — so come fully self-sufficient.
Bring: Water or a filter, bear-proof food storage, lightweight gear, a tarp (trust me — west coast weather changes fast), bear spray, and extra socks.
Campfires are allowed when permitted. Follow local fire restrictions.
At night, the stars are unbelievable. The sky opens wide and the ocean hums — it’s the kind of quiet that fills your whole chest.
Wildlife + Nature
Raft Cove is home to an incredible range of wildlife. You might spot bald eagles soaring overhead. Black bears foraging along the tide line. Sea otters bobbing in the kelp beds. Whales are breaching just offshore during migration season. Also, a large population of Seawolfs lives in the area. Use caution.
This is their home first — always observe from a respectful distance and store all food safely.
Raft Cove isn’t a place you stumble upon — it’s a place you earn.
It’s for those who crave quiet, who aren’t afraid of a little mud, and who find beauty in simplicity. It’s the kind of wild that reminds you how small you are and how alive the world can be.
There’s a peace here that you can’t quite put into words — only feel.
Once you’ve stood on that beach and watched the waves roll endlessly in, you’ll understand.
Raft Cove isn’t just a destination.
It’s a reminder of what it means to return to the wild.
