While Toshogu gets all the gold-leaf glory in Nikko, Futarasan-jinja offers something more subtle but equally powerful. Founded in the 8th century, long before its flashier neighbors arrived, this shrine keeps things wonderfully understated. Its Honden (main hall) sits there quietly, almost like it's saying "I was here first" to all the later additions.

The atmosphere here feels more authentically spiritual - maybe because it's dedicated to Mount Nantai's god, or maybe because fewer tourists make it past Toshogu. Those ancient cedar trees create these amazing natural corridors that make you feel like you're walking through time rather than just another shrine complex.

What's special about Futarasan is how it reminds you that before Nikko became a showcase of shogunate power, it was first and foremost a sacred mountain site. The shrine might be simpler than its neighbors, but that's exactly what makes it feel more connected to Nikko's original spiritual roots.