Secrets of Kansai
4 días

What you'll do

Four-day plan that's all about hidden treasures – the stuff you won't find in regular guides.

Day 1 - Explore one of Japan's holiest places with over a thousand years of history including one of my favorite Temples of all time.

  • Travel time (from Kyoto Station): 35 min (JR train + bus) or 40 min by car

Day 2 - Discover a charming village frozen in time as you explore the north of Kyoto. Uncover ancient temples, their secrets, traditions, flavors, and stories that will transport you to a different era.

  • Travel time (from Kyoto Station): 1 hour and 10 minutes by subway and bus or 50 minutes by car.

Day 3 - Venture off the beaten path in Arashiyama, avoiding crowded tourist spots. Explore hidden and atmospheric locations that are rarely visited, offering a unique perspective on this beautiful area.

  • Travel time (from Kyoto Station): 40 minutes by subway and train or 30 minutes by car.

Day 4 - Discover the essence of Japan's charm on this day trip while wandering through historic streets lined with traditional homes, savor some of the best Wagyu in Japan, and unwind with serene views of the lake Biwa. From scenic mountain vistas to peaceful boat rides, this itinerary promises an unforgettable adventure.

  • Travel time (from Kyoto Station): 50-60 minutes by train + bus or 1 hour by car.

And, of course, if you've been following my Instagram for long enough, you know that these itineraries include absolutely delicious restaurants and cafes where you can savor some of the best dishes of local cuisine.

  • All of the locations are accessible by public transport.

  • Mentioned travel time is approximate and may vary depending on your departure time and traffic conditions.

  • If you plan to spend less than 3 days in Kyoto, choose those day-trips that you are interested in the most.

  • These day trips are not interconnected and may be experienced in any order

Day 1

1

About this day trip (Hiei)

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About this day trip

Discover the wonders of Mt. Hiei - one of the three most holy places, often called the birthplace of Buddhism in Japan. You'll hop on a cable car that takes you up the mountain while you enjoy breathtaking views all around you. It's like a mini adventure just getting there! Once you're up on the mountain, get ready to step back in time. There are these ancient temples and shrines that have been there for centuries. It's pretty amazing to think about all the history and stories they hold. You can explore them, take in the peaceful atmosphere, and maybe even learn a thing or two about Japanese culture.

Recommended arrival time at the first location: 9:00 AM (if you plan to use only public transport)

Quick summary of the day:

  • walk around a beautiful forest area with ancient and one of the most significant Temples located on top of a Mountain

  • ride a funicular cable car with a panoramic view of the largest lake in Japan - Biwa

  • optional 1h hike with a unique shrine on top and a beautiful view

  • Couple of really good restaurants offering traditional Japanese cuisine

  • buy some locally produced sweets as a souvenir

2

How to get to Mt. Hiei

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Read before your trip

Recommended arrival time at the first location: 9:00 AM

📍Flexible travel route from Kyoto Station to Hieizan-Sakamoto Station (JR) depending on your departure time

📍Cable Sakamoto Station location

  • it is not necessary to begin your route from Kyoto Station.

  • If you do NOT plan to start from Kyoto station, simply choose your own departure location and time

  • Be sure to double check that the "taxi service" option is turned off when you are searching for a route in google maps

IMPORTANT: If you will be traveling by public transport, there is a high chance that first you will arrive at Hieizan-Sakamoto JR Station. There is small shuttle bus operating between Hieizan-Sakamoto JR Station and Cable Sakamoto Station location.

Once you exit the JR station through the ticket gates, immediately turn right and you will see a bus station. Our shuttle bus departs from the platform N2 (on the right). Look for the bus with blue and bronze-brown colors (refer to one of the attached photos).

The first shuttle bus leaves at around 9 am and it takes just 7 minutes. I highly recommend to board the first one to be able to visit all of the locations listed in this itinerary. 📍 Shuttle bus from JR station to the Cable Sakamoto station

Another really good option is to go by taxi (if you would like to start earlier or you missed that first shuttle bus) from Hieizan-Sakamoto JR Station to Cable Sakamoto Station location. They are pretty close to each other and the total taxi price should not be more than a 1,000 JPY.

TIP: If you will be traveling by car (rental or taxi), I recommend to arrive to Cable Sakamoto Station location at 8:20 to board the first cable car at 8:30

3

Hieizan-Sakamoto JR Station

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JR station (skip it if you travel by car or taxi)

Hieizan-Sakamoto JR Station. There is a regular shuttle bus running between this JR station and Cable Sakamoto station

Once you exit the JR station through the ticket gates, immediately turn right and you will see a bus station. Our shuttle bus departs from the platform N2 (on the right). Look for the bus with blue and bronze-brown colors (refer to one of the attached photos)

4

Cable Sakamoto Station

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Cablecar station

Funicular station at the bottom of Mt. Hiei.

*The funicular car runs between Sakamoto Station and Enryakuji Station and it takes 11 minutes to get from one station to another. The train departs every :00 and :30 minutes.

Round trip price - 1,660 JPY

5

Cable Enryakuji Station

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Retro Cablecar ride

Funicular cable car station at the top of Mt. Hiei.

It takes about 10 minutes (on foot) to get from this station to the Todo area, which includes the Enryaku-ji Temple.

Also, you will be able to get a nice view of Lake Biwa from its observation deck.

*The funicular car runs between Enryakuji Station and Sakamoto Station, and it takes 11 minutes to get from one station to another. The train departs every :00 and :30 minutes.

6

Ticket Booth

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Entry to the Temple complex

It is one of the entry points to the Todo area of Enryaku-ji Temple complex.

With this admission fee, you can enter any of the Temple complex buildings in the Todo area, except the optional museum (extra 500JPY required).

*The entire Enryaku-ji complex is actually divided into 3 large areas: 1. Todo Area (this particular location); 2. Saito Area; 3. Yokawa Area

Keep your ticket! There are two locations that require re-entry to the Todo area from another entry point, so make sure you have your ticket to show that you got earlier.

7

Bell of Luck

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Legendary Bell tower

Huge bell in the Temple's complex that anyone can ring (which is a pretty rare thing throughout the Temples). Throw a coin as an offering into the box, pay your respects by bowing, and ring the bell.

The most interesting part is the legend behind that bell. In the past, Nasubi-baba was a noblewoman. She lived centuries ago and served in the imperial court, but she committed a grave crime. Some say it was eating an animal, while others claim murder. After her death, she was damned to hell; however, she was repentant in life and sought forgiveness from the Buddhas and the priests of Enryaku-ji. Even though her body descended into hell, her spirit was allowed to remain on Mount Hiei. To this day, she comes to warn the temple of disasters as a token of her gratitude to the Buddhas.

8

Daikodo (Grand Lecture Hall)

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Temple's Lecture Hall

The Daikodo Hall is a place where monks come to study and learn about Buddhism. It is also a place where monks come to debate and discuss the teachings of the Buddha. The hall is a symbol of the importance of education and learning in the Tendai Buddhism sect tradition.

On the left side as you enter the building, you will see some chairs and tables that are used for sutra copying, and anyone willing may participate (refer to the Tips section for the instructions and the meaning behind sutra copying if you would like to try it).

In addition to its religious significance, the Daikodo Hall is also an important architectural landmark.

*Photography is not allowed inside.

9

Amidado Hall

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Beautiful Temple Hall

Amidado, or the Hall of Amida Buddha, was constructed to house a statue of Amida Buddha, a prominent figure in Pure Land Buddhism. It was believed that devotion to Amida Buddha would lead to rebirth in the Pure Land.

This building was not just a physical structure but also a spiritual haven where monks and pilgrims would gather for meditation, sutra recitation, and worship. The tranquil environment of Amidado and the entire Enryaku-ji complex allowed practitioners to connect with their inner selves and the divine.

10

Kokuho-den Japanese National Treasure Museum

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National Treasure Museum

It is a three-story museum that was built in 1988 to house the temple's collection of national treasures, which includes a wide variety of artifacts such as statues of Buddhas, bodhisattvas, guardians, scrolls, paintings, and other items.

I've decided to include it here for one particular reason - it is the first place in Japan where I could examine and check out those statues (that you can usually see in temples all over Japan) up close, and they are quite impressive (though I cannot say that I am a fan of museums).

I do recommend visiting this museum only if you have already visited all of the other locations in this area (Todo area of Enryaku-ji) and still have some time left (plus some time to get in time for your Funicular train that heads down the mountain).

11

比叡茶寮 (Hiei saryō) Cafe

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Perfect rest with sweets and tea

It is a small counter that sells matcha tea sets and some ice cream right outside of a gift shop (where you can buy some of those sweets offered from the menu). A perfect place to take a breather and enjoy some tasty matcha with a snack before heading back down the mountain.

I recommend trying the matcha set with black and white sesame daifuku. It is a local specialty and if you enjoy it, you can buy a whole box of those for yourself or as a gift.

To get here, you will have to exit the Todo area of Enryaku-ji through the ticket counter. Be sure to have your ticket prepared (that you got first when you entered that area) so that you will be able to re-enter.

12

Enryakuji bus centre baiten (souvenir shop)

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Local Souvenirs and sweets shop

Perfect place to pick up souvenirs from Kyoto and Shiga prefectures before you head down from the Mt. Hiei. I bought two types of sweets that are unique to this area (Otsu city and Shiga prefecture):

  1. Black and white sesame Daifuku - absolutely loved that one and highly recommend it to everyone! Before you decide to buy a huge box (I bought the largest 🤣), you can try them with a matcha set at the small nearby sweets shop just outside the building - 比叡茶寮 / Hieisaryou

  2. Fish-shaped Monaka - was pretty good for Monaka (I would rate it 7.5 out of 10), but the form factor is really awesome and even if you do not like monaka, it is pretty cool as a gift for someone back at home.

*There is also a soba/noodle restaurant inside this building, but since it has absolutely the same menu as this one Tsuruki-soba, I prefer the latter one because it has a bit nicer atmosphere.

To get to the shop, you will have to exit the Todo area of Enryaku-ji through the ticket counter. Be sure to have your ticket prepared (that you got first when you entered that area) so that you will be able to re-enter.

13

Enryaku-ji Temple

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Iconic Buddhist Temple

This particular building actually has two different pins on Google Maps. One is for Enryaku-ji, and another one is for Konpon-chūdō (the main hall).

Enryaku-ji is an iconic Buddhist Temple complex located on Mount Hiei, founded in 788 by the monk Saichō. Back in the days, it was really huge and consisted of 3,000 sub-temples and had its own army of warrior monks. Actually, the whole complex was destroyed in 1571 by a powerful Daimyo (feudal lord) named Oda Nobunaga because the Temple sided with his enemies (long story short). But after Oda Nobunaga's death, monks began to return to the mountain to restore the Temple.

It is deemed as the Birthplace of Japanese Buddhism and is now a part of UNESCO's World Heritage Site.

Konpon-chūdō is the main hall of Enryaku-ji Temple (Photography is not allowed inside). It is one of the oldest and most important wooden buildings in Japan, and it has been designated a National Treasure. Since 2016 it has been under reconstruction until 2026/27. The whole building is covered by a metal construction and basically cannot be seen from outside, but you can still go inside (NO extra fee required), which I totally recommend doing anyway. The atmosphere is second to none, and it feels sacred, which I suppose is quite obvious considering its religious significance in Japan. Check the 1st minute of this YouTube Video to see how it looked before the reconstruction and how it looks now.

Besides being visually impressive (inside), it also has three large brass lanterns containing eternal candle flames (Fumetsu no hoto) that were lit by Priest Saicho himself. Named the “Inextinguishable Dharma Lamp,” the flames have been burning continuously for over 1,200 years.

There is a specific way of worshipping inside Konpon-chūdō (of course only if you would like to; it is totally optional):

  1. Bow with your palms pressed together (do not clap. You clap only in Shinto shrines) in front of the main altar;

  2. Place a coin in the offering box;

  3. Offer incense - take a pinch of incense from the incense container, using the thumb, forefinger, and middle finger. Raise the pinch of incense to the level of your forehead, the head slightly bowed and the eyes closed. Next, lower the incense and drop it on the charcoal in the censer (incense burner). It is up to you to do this from one to three times.

14

Monju-ro

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Temple of Bodhisattva of Wisdom

The Monju-ro building is simply a quiet and calm spot in the whole complex and offers a beautiful vista to take some nice photos.

*You may easily skip this location if you don't feel like climbing up those stairs.

15

Reiho

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Stunning view (cafe)

The main draw of this cafe is its view of Biwa Lake. It's a perfect place (though a bit old-fashioned) to take a breather and enjoy some good Matcha tea or Latte Matcha (normal latte is also available, but it was just alright, nothing too special) with an amazing view. They also have a pretty fun gimmicky thing where they ask what year you were born so that they can make a special sign by sprinkling some cocoa/chocolate powder on top of your latte. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to try the Tiramisu dessert from the menu that looked very promising because it's only available on weekends 😭.

Besides this cafe, there is also a gift shop where I bought Furikake - a pretty interesting thing to try out or to give as a gift to someone who loves to cook. I also had to buy my favorite cinnamon cookies that are Kyoto's specialty (I couldn't resist, even though they aren't specific to Mt. Hiei).

*According to their website, the opening hours are from 10:00 AM till 4:00 PM.

16

Cable Enryakuji Station (return)

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Funicular station

Funicular cable car station at the top of Mt. Hiei.

It takes about 10 minutes (on foot) to get from this station to the Todo area, which includes the Enryaku-ji Temple.

Also, you will be able to get a nice view of Lake Biwa from its observation deck.

*The funicular car runs between Enryakuji Station and Sakamoto Station, and it takes 11 minutes to get from one station to another. The train departs every :00 and :30 minutes.

17

Cable Sakamoto Station (return)

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Funicular station

Funicular station at the bottom of Mt. Hiei.

*The funicular car runs between Sakamoto Station and Enryakuji Station and it takes 11 minutes to get from one station to another. The train departs every :00 and :30 minutes.

Round trip price - 1,660 JPY

18

Fuyōen

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Authentic Japanese Cuisine

Traditional Japanese restaurant with delicious food and an amazing view of a garden with its own small waterfall.

Reservation is not required, but according to their website, during December they ask to make a reservation because their schedule may be changed and they might be closed (if no reservations were made).

TEL: 0775780567

I highly doubt that they speak any English over the phone, so I would strongly recommend asking your hotel staff to make a phone call and reserve for you if you plan to go there in December (I actually recommend doing that during Jan and Feb as well 😅).

19

Hashirii Bridge

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Sacred bridge

Part of the Hiyoshi Taisha shrine.

A beautiful location for a photo where you can also spot a very unusual cedar tree with a sacred Shimenawa rope attached to it.

20

San-nou Torii

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Unique Torii Gate

Part of the Hiyoshi Taisha shrine.

A very unique Torii gate that I've never seen before, due to its mountain-shaped gable attached to the top.

21

Hiyoshi Taisha

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Sacred Mountain Sanctuary

Absolutely stunning historic Shinto shrine (that becomes even more beautiful in autumn). It is a huge complex tucked away in a very peaceful natural setting. It is a bit less crowded and touristy compared to some other places, which is quite refreshing. You can take a leisurely walk, soak in the atmosphere, and get a sense of history and nature blending together. Definitely worth considering if you're seeking a more relaxed and authentic experience.

*You can also do one of those cool water-revealing Omikuji here. There is no English translation for them, so get ready your google translator app.

If you're up for a somewhat steep but short hike, be sure to visit one of its most beautiful parts - Two shrines built on the cliffs of Mt. Hachiōji, where you can also enjoy a nice view of Lake Biwa.

22

Great Golden Rock

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Secret Shrine on a clif

OPTIONAL LOCATION in the 3-day Kyoto itinerary

  • I recommend skipping this location if you're visiting during summer and the weather is too hot, or if it's raining.

  • The hike to the top and back takes approximately one hour, so plan your hike accordingly. Please note that it is a steep hike, but relatively short.

Part of the Hiyoshi Taisha shrine.

Situated near the summit of Mount Hachioji, you'll discover two shrines (they resemble miniature versions of Kiyomizu-dera 😅) and a massive sacred rock between them known as the "Great Golden Rock." Inside the rock resides Oyamakui-no-Kami, the Shinto deity who originally presided over nearby Mount Hiei.

Allegedly, the rock is named "Golden" due to its characteristic shine during sunrise.

If the weather is kind enough, you'll also be able to enjoy a pretty nice view of Lake Biwa.

📍Hike starting point

23

East Sanctuary

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Peaceful Shrine surrounded by nature

The eastern part of Hiyoshi Taisha shrine has some notable features. One interesting aspect is that the entire complex, comprising both the Western and Eastern parts, includes a total of 7 main shrines. Consequently, each shrine's stairs have 7 steps, and each Komainu (guardian dog) is depicted with 7 tails.

24

Shigain Monzeki Temple

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Hidden Temple gem

Shigain Monzeki Temple is a must-visit for anyone looking to experience a taste of traditional Japan, and honestly, I fell in love with this location right away.

It is one of the few remaining ancient Monzeki Temples (temples that initially had strong ties with the imperial family) in Japan and is open to visitors. This particular Temple had been used as a residence by the head priests of the Enryaku-ji Temple (the one on top of the Mt. Hiei). It even has one of the lamps with the Eternal Dharma Light that was lit over 1200 years ago by the Buddhist monk and founder of Enryaku-ji Temple - Saicho (Dengyo Daishi).

This Temple is truly amazing for lots of reasons - it has an amazing and authentic atmosphere with narrow dimly lit corridors, lots of really cool exhibits (unique paintings, suits of Armor, and other artifacts), and a small but beautiful garden where for an extra fee you can even feed the koi (Japanese carps).

But here is the main reason why this Temple is truly a hidden gem (at least for me 😅) - here you can practice Shakyo (Copying of Sutra), which is actually not that rare for a Temple, but usually such places are filled with tourists and it kinda ruins a little bit the whole point which is a form of meditation for some people (me 🙋‍♀️). And honestly, I think this Temple is absolutely perfect for Shakyo, because I was the only person in the whole Temple during my visit and the place felt so calm.

*Shakyo costs 1,000 JPY per person on top of the admission fee

You do not need to be a believer in Buddhism or a religious person to try out Shakyo (and you do not have to know how to write or read kanji - Japanese/Chinese characters), which is the practice of copying Buddhist sutras by hand. Shakyo can be approached from various perspectives and motivations. While it is a traditional practice within Buddhism and is often carried out as a form of meditation or devotion, it can also be appreciated as an artistic or meditative activity without strict religious context.

Some people engage in Shakyo as a way to experience a sense of calm, focus, and mindfulness while copying the intricate characters of the sutras. Others might find it a way to connect with cultural heritage, learn calligraphy, or simply appreciate the aesthetic beauty of the sutra's characters.

This place is truly an overlooked hidden gem of the Hiei Mountain area.

How to Shakyo (Sutra copying):

  1. You don't have to ask anyone in advance, just find a room with chairs and tables along the window opening overlooking the garden. Nearby you will find three types of papers of Shakyo (check the attached photo). Basically, the difference between them is the symbol quantity and how long it will take to complete one (small - 10 minutes, mid - 20 minutes, large - 50 minutes). I recommend getting the smallest one.

  2. Please turn off your mobile phone before you begin with shakyo and refrain from talking.

  3. Sit down at the table, calm your mind, close your eyes, relax your body, take a few deep breaths, and open your eyes.

  4. Bow with your palms pressed against each other 🙏

  5. Trace the sutra characters from top to bottom, starting from the upper right-hand corner (you will find a special pen lying on the table). Remember, it is not about the sutra characters being beautifully written, so do not concentrate on the neatness of your writing. It's a versatile activity that can be enjoyed for its meditative and cultural aspects.

  6. If you make a mistake, continue without hesitation. The practice is about the process, not perfection.

  7. Once you finish, write your name under 氏名

  8. Once again, bow with your palms pressed against each other 🙏

  9. Unfortunately, you cannot take it home with you. A completed Shakyo sheet should be left at the temple, so once you are done, please hand it over to one of the staff members at the entrance and pay that extra 1,000 JPY fee.

25

Notes Mt. Hieizan

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Read before the next activity

This note marks the end of this itinerary.

I checked so many restaurants for dinner near Mt. Hieizan, and I could not find anything decent. So the best option that I would like to recommend is to actually have dinner somewhere close to Kyoto Station. I listed all of my top recommendations as the next locations in this itinerary so that you could choose one that you prefer the most.

26

Kitsune No Yomeiri

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Top Wagyu Restaurant in Kyoto

One of my favorite restaurants where you can try fantastic Japanese Wagyu beef Omakase. The beef is usually served with seasonal ingredients. They offer several course options starting from ¥14,000.

Kindly note that many meat dishes on the course menu feature Wagyu served quite rare

Reservation is required.

For this day trip, I recommend staying in one of the hotels in Kyoto where I personally enjoyed my stay the most.

These hotels are listed as the next locations on this itinerary (three of them are listed here).

If, for any reason, you are unable to book any of these three hotels, you can find my other hotel recommendations (which are equally great) on my map or under the "things to do" list by selecting the option to show only hotels.

All of my recommended hotels cater to a wide variety of preferences for every type of traveler, including different budget ranges, modern or traditional options, and more. They are especially perfect, considering their location right in the heart of Kyoto and their convenience for one-day trips (due to their 5-minute walking distance to either Subway or JR stations).

27

Renka-no-Yu On-Yado NONO Kyoto Shichijo

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Hotel with a hot spring

One of my top 3 favorite hotels in Kyoto with an incredible location (between Kyoto Station and Shichijō Station of the Keihan line) that lets you easily explore and relish all of Kyoto's attractions, making it even more ideal for those long-distance day trips. There's nothing quite like a soothing evening in an onsen bath after a full day of exploring Kyoto!