The new High-Speed Station in Bologna is an underground marvel designed by Isozaki and Maffei. It's like a hidden gem beneath the city, with three levels of coolness: trains zooming on the bottom level, services and shops in the middle, and a kiss-and-ride tunnel for cars on top. The station is all about glass, LED lights, and futuristic vibes, making it a must-see stop for any train enthusiast or architecture lover passing through Bologna.

Whether you’re coming by train or plane, you’ll end up there anyway (Marconi Express, better known as People Mover, or a bus - when the mover doesn’t work - will all take you there). The only way to avoid it is if you’re coming by car but beware of the Limited Traffic Zone (often marked as ZTL) - the area covering most of the historic center where you can’t enter by car.

Every fall and spring there’s a famous Fiera del Libro on Piazza XX Settembre, across the road from the station. This book market is a huge deal in Bologna - it was first introduced in 1927 and has become a staple ever since.

Why you should visit it?

Because you can find the most peculiar antique goods there! From 200-year-old books to vintage pieces of vinyl to original movie posters - there’s a lot you can take home as a fantastic souvenir (and it won’t cost you a fortune!)

When?

Mid-September to the end of October/Mid-March to the end of April

Every day, from 9 am to 7.30 pm.

Note for all bookworms: if you miss the market or would love to check out some peculiar bookshops around Bologna, make sure to watch my guide!

Via Indipendenza boasts a few interesting monuments, like Teatro Arena del Sole (an ex-convent, turned into the theatre during the Napoleonic times, still very much loved by the local audience) right in front of the statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi. This theatre is a vibrant cultural hub where you can catch a diverse range of performances, from cutting-edge theater to innovative dance shows. With a focus on contemporary creations and international collaborations, this theater offers an exciting lineup that will keep you on the edge of your seat. Whether you're a theater enthusiast or just looking for a unique night out, the Arena del Sole has something for everyone. So, grab a ticket, sit back, and get ready to be entertained in the heart of Bologna's artistic scene!

Not everybody knows that a massive church in Via Indipendenza, Cattedrale di San Pietro, is an actual cathedral (or Duomo) of Bologna - contrary to some tourists’ belief. Is it worth checking out? Absolutely yes, for some impressive gothic interiors - plus, it turns out to be enormous once you step inside! The cathedral's campanile, or bell tower, is one of the tallest in Bologna and houses the impressive bell named "La Nonna." You can find local street artists showcasing their works nearby as well as some occasional vintage markets right around the corner.

Once you reach Piazza Maggiore, you’ll be stunned by the dimensions of this square. But make sure to stop by the Fountain of Neptune - one of the most important symbols of Bologna. There are two places that locals use to make appointments, and Neptune is one of them. If you happen to live in Bologna for even a short time, chances are you’re going to hear the phrase “Ci vediamo al Nettuno” (“Let's meet at the Neptune”) at least once! If you’re looking for a cheesy souvenir to bring home, all the Neptune merch will do the job: you’ll find it on tote bags, t-shirts, aprons, magnets, and even book covers!

A tip for sustainable travelers: if you’re traveling with your own refillable water bottle, sadly, there aren’t many water fountains in Bologna (I know, it’s outrageous!). The one by the Fountain of Neptune, however, is the most central and very reliable - make sure to pin this place on your map so you always know where to go when you need a refill!

This square has probably become the central one for many other reasons, but I personally feel like, travel-wise, Piazza Maggiore deserves A LOT of attention. From Palazzo dei Notai (sadly closed by the huge ad banners most of the time), a 14th-century building that once served as the notary guild’s headquarters, to the magnificent Palazzo Re Enzo - there are just too many historical landmarks for one square meter!

Right behind Neptune, there’s a place that is sometimes overlooked by tourists - Biblioteca Sala Borsa, one of the biggest (and most loved) libraries in the city. You’ll want to see it! It’s a real artwork inside, and it was actually built on the ruins of the Roman city of Bononia that you can see thanks to glass floors - or by going underground! There’s an entrance there on the -1st floor and the contribution for entry is voluntary. Not convinced yet? There are Etruscan remains as well, preceding the Roman ones, and the library itself is home to the only covered square in the city - Piazza Umberto Eco - that once was an open-air botanic garden!

Palazzo d'Accursio, also known as Palazzo Comunale, has been the seat of the city council (Comune) since 1336! While today it’s mostly occupied by the offices, you can have access to the Municipal Art Collection and one of the best views of Piazza Maggiore from the Clock Tower(Torre dell’Orologio).

Did you know? Bologna has always been the city that valued freedom over everything. It began nurturing the idea of becoming autonomous as early as in the Xth century, and started their road to freedom after the death of Matilda of Tuscany, obtaining notable concessions from the Emperor. Despite Frederick’s Barbarossa attempts to conquer the city, Bologna established its full autonomy in 1183, becoming one of the most important commercial hubs in Northern Italy and one of the five most influential cities in Europe. But Bologna didn’t stop there - in 1256, Comune di Bologna promulgated a law text called Liber Paradisus. The text declared the abolition of slavery (609 years before it was abolished in the USA!) and the liberation of more than 5,000 slaves (out of the city’s 60,000 population). The main reason behind it? According to the text, that can be found in the city archives today, it was necessary to “break the chains of slavery” because “only free people can live in our city”. Bologna has always valued its freedom above all else - even the city’s coat of arms repeats the word “Libertas” twice! Those few official rulers that had dared to try and impose their rule on the city didn’t have a happy ending (we’ll talk about it later), and Bolognesiare still proud of this love for freedom.

It is said that Enzo of Sardinia, an illegitimate son of the emperor Frederick II, was held prisoner there in the 13th century. Some historians doubt it, as no one has seen him after he was defeated during one of the battles, but he allegedly died in captivity. Nevertheless, the Bentivoglio family, a powerful family that governed Bologna during the Renaissance era, claimed to be his descendants - and we’ll roll with this claim, leaving the investigation to the true historians.

Dark fact about Bologna: Today Palazzo Re Enzo serves as an event venue, but ever since medieval times it has been the main execution place - all the way until the execution was abolished. If you look carefully, you can spot two beams under one of the arches. These beams are no other thing than the parts of ancient gallows! You will most likely notice how tall these are - this is because a platform had to be used to carry out the execution. The executioner lived right here - inside Torre Lamberitini, where the female quarters of the prison were located as well - and was a very respectable person in Bologna. It wasn’t uncommon for local nobles to invite him to their dinners and balls - any guesses why?

Fun fact about Bologna: to balance out the grim story of this palace, there’s a fun (and free) attraction you can try out while walking under the arches of Palazzo Re Enzo. I’m talking about the so-called “cellphone”: if you stand in the opposite corners at the intersection of the arches in the center, one person should be able to hear what the other one is saying while being turned to face the corner of the wall!

The main attraction of the piazza is the Basilica of San Petronio - right, the one tourists usually mistake for the cathedral of Bologna. The first two things you notice about the church are the size (“huge” would be an understatement) and the incomplete look. The two facts are actually in close relation to each other: according to the local legend, i bolognesi wanted to build the biggest church in the world, exceeding that of San Pietro in the Vatican. Guess what happened when the Pope found out? Obviously, he stopped financing the project - hence its incomplete look. But the locals love it as it is - there’s beauty in the imperfection! It’s just a legend (and I love it for catching the local sentiments so well), but still, the church is really impressive. You can visit it for free (I promised you can do a lot of things for free in Bologna), but you’ll have to pay 2 euros if you want to take pictures or videos. Is it worth it? You should decide for yourself. The church impresses you with its size, although, subjectively, it might not be the most jaw-dropping from the inside. But it’s still worth a visit - for peeking at the longest meridian on the basilica’s floor or attending an organ music concert. The coolest part about the church? In my opinion, it has the best panoramic views in the city. From the back of the basilica, you can find the elevator taking you to the top of the building for a panoramic belltower - this is A MUST when visiting Bologna. Seeing the famous Two Towers of Bologna from there is like going to Paris and climbing up any panoramic terrace that’s not the Eiffel Tower - to actually see the Eiffel Tower. You get the idea, right? The terrace is open only during the weekends, and the ticket costs 5 euros. Always check the opening hours before coming!

Each summer, the whole place is dominated by Il Cinema Sotto le Stelle, a world-famous open-air film festival, that shows both classical and more recent films in original languages. Each feature is usually preceded by a speech from famous actors and directors, and it’s totally free of charge to participate - just make sure to be there in advance to claim your place!

Why you should visit it?

The whole experience is hard to describe merely with words. Imagine a huge open-air piazza, a ginormous screen, a cinematographic masterpiece and you’re sitting there, under the literal stars. I’ve been to a fair share of film festivals in my life, including Venice Film Festival, and I can assure you of the following: while Il Cinema Sotto le Stelle is not as prestigious as some other film festivals, you aren’t going there for the latest award-winning pictures or to see the cinema elite: you’re going there for a completely unique experience of movie-watching that you won’t get anywhere else.

When?

The festival runs from the end of June to mid-August each year, with most films starting at around 21.30 (come early to get a better place, especially if there’s a famous director making a speech before the film that night!)

Here’s the catch: right behind San Petronio church, there are several more places you don’t want to miss. Missed the book market, but still want a fancy souvenir? Head to Libreria Nanni, one of the oldest and most famous bookshops in Bologna. Why is it so special? Besides being opened in 1825 and having worked continuously ever since, this bookshop, located under Portico della Morte, will make you think of the famous Parisian Bouquinistes, with its characteristic banks selling everything, from contemporary literature to antique works. The bookshop has once been very much loved by Pier Paolo Pasolini, too. So whether you’d like to buy an antique book or a funny guide to the Bolognese dialect (dialàtt bulgnaiṡ), you’ll find something to bring home from there. 

The scariest portico in Bologna? Portico della Morte (Portico of Death) which hosts Libreria Nanni today, has had a long and gruesome story. It takes its name after the former hospital, Ospedale della Morte, nowadays a seat of the Archaeological Museum. The hospital catered to the terminally ill as well as to those sentenced to death during their last days. Don’t worry though, today it’s a rather pleasant place to walk and stop to look at the books!

You will hardly find another place in the world with its history being as linked to the university as Bologna. The University of Bologna, officially known as the oldest educational institution in the Western World, was established in 1088 ( or at least the oldest document mentioning it dates back to that year). Ever since Bologna has been attracting intellectuals from all around Europe (and even the whole world!): some of the most prominent alumni include Dante Alighieri, Erasmus of Rotterdam, Nicolaus Copernicus, Petrarch and Umberto Eco, as well as many illustrious Italian scientists, a few popes, and at least one saint! If you’re wondering by now why I’m making this brief introduction to the university’s history, here’s the answer. The next point you absolutely can’t miss is the famousArchiginnasio. Built in the XVIth century, Archiginnasio used to be the seat of the university for several centuries. Today you can access the 16th-century Anatomic Theatre, the old (and very impressive!)Sala dello Stabat Mater as well as ancient corridors covered in the coats of arms of former students and faculty (well, the University of Bologna has always had this affinity to being extra). It was heavily damaged in bombings during the Second World War and was then rebuilt with a significant contribution from the locals.

Preparing a mystical elixir in the courtyard: since early medieval times, a mystical elixir called Terriaca has been prepared right there in the courtyard. According to some accounts, it was made in huge cauldrons and was used to cure each and every disease known to humankind. Prepared in front of an audience consisting of doctors, professors, and locals, it was then distributed to the various pharmacies across the city. Very little information was left to our days and the recipe was apparently lost!

The Anatomical Theatre of the Archiginnasio is a historic lecture hall where anatomy lectures and displays were once held. Built in 1637, this unique theatre features wooden statues of famous physicians, including Hippocrates and Galenus, as well as the iconic "Spellati" statues by Ercole Lelli. The theatre was rebuilt after being destroyed during World War II, preserving its original pieces with meticulous care of the locals. It's a cool spot to check out if you're into medical history or just want to see some fascinating anatomical artifacts!

At Archiginnasio, you can access the old (and very impressive!) Sala dello Stabat Mater as well as ancient corridors covered in the coats of arms of former students and faculty (well, the University of Bologna has always had this affinity to being extra).

From Piazza Mercanzia, take a turn to the left and explore Via Caprarie and the adjacent Mercato nel Quadrilatero - a medieval market that still maintains its original function! Stroll the ancient streets, enjoy the ancient market stalls and tiny local shops, and have lunch at one of its numerous restaurants - most places here deserve attention, and you can find something for every budget. I personally recommend you to check out Mercato di Mezzo, a covered food court area in the heart of the market, where you can choose among numerous different options of what to eat. Otherwise, check out the food guide at the end!

Why you should visit it?

Mercato del Quadrilatero still has the air of a medieval market and, frankly, I haven’t seen a place like this anywhere else in Italy (I know, I know; I’m becoming a little bit Bolognese after all these years!). From shouting fish vendors to colourful fresh fruits and vegetables; from tiny florists to shops selling handmade miscellaneous items for ages; from a bakery selling Certosino made with an original 19th century recipe (Certosino is a typical Christmas cake in Bologna) to the ancient Drogheria Gilberto, where you can find anything, from exclusive wines and spirits to whimsical sweets, like chocolate tortellini - you can easily get lost in the abundance of sounds and smells, and then find yourself with a bunch of some exquisitely good local products.

Where?

Mercato nel Quadrilatero spans several streets, among which are Via Caprarie, Via Drapperie, Via Clavature, Via Pescherie Vecchie, and Vicolo Ranocchi.

Ancient Aperitivo Tradition: while in the Mercato nel Quadrilatero area, stop by Osteria del Sole, the oldest osteria in the city! It was opened in 1465, and still to this day, it is one of the most famous spots in the city. The Osteria serves only drinks (mostly local wines), but they allow you (and even encourage you!) to bring your own food. So you can buy something at the market and eat it in the Osteria del Sole while sipping on one of their renowned wines!

After a stroll around the market (and maybe even some lunch), head straight to Via Rizzoli, a large and somewhat chaotic street lined with shops - but you’re here for the view! This famous street leads to the Two Towers, the hallmark of Bologna. And yes, we have our very own leaning tower, as one of the two (Garisenda) has been leaning for centuries due to the ground caving underneath. It was shortened in the XIV century to prevent it from crashing, but before that, Dante mentioned the Garisenda Tower in the Divine Comedy (putting it in Hell, though; apparently, it was leaning THAT much back then). 

Medieval Manhattan: Did you know that in the Middle Ages, there were tons of other towers like these two in Bologna? It’s difficult to estimate the exact number of towers that once spiked here and there around the city, but some historians say there were up to 180 of them, which makes Bologna a true medieval Manhattan. Many were ruined or shortened over the years, so today there are only a bit more than 20 towers left, most of them too short to be noticed from afar. Torre degli Asinelli, the tallest of the Two Towers, is still there and can be visited - unless you’re a student! The local superstition (that is followed religiously by most students, even though many won’t admit it) says you can’t climb up the Asinelli Tower before graduating from university - otherwise, the long-awaited graduation may never come! This tower is 97,2 m high and was built in the XII century by the Asinelli family - although some claim the towers had a defensive purpose, many people tend to believe it was a way for local families to show off… hence naming the tallest towers after themselves!

!!! As of 2024, both towers are sadly closed to tourists because of an increased risk of Garisenda’s collapse. The restoration works are underway though, so hopefully you will soon be able to visit its neighbor, Torre degli Asinelli, as per usual.

Feltrinelli Librerie is a popular Italian bookstore chain that offers a wide range of books, from bestsellers to vintage classics, as well as comics, manga, and (tons of!) English-language titles. Besides, it's a perfect place to get funny travel guides around Bologna, including local cook books and entertaining vocabs of the local dialect!

Check out Caffè Zanarini, one of the oldest cafes in Bologna. Overlooking the beautiful Piazza Galvani and located a stone’s throw away from the Archiginnasio, you can enjoy some tasty pastries and little desserts with coffee, or even have an early lunch if it strikes your fancy! 

It may feel like you’re entering a completely different part of the city after leaving Piazza Galvani, and for a good reason: you’re getting closer to the hills, which means more green spaces. Bologna is not a particularly green city, or better, most of its greenery is hidden inside numerous courtyards that, sadly, are private properties. Nevertheless, you can enjoy plenty of green spaces once you head towards the hills, and even in the southern part of the city center (exactly where I’m taking you now!), you can find some islands of nature. One of them is a tiny Piazza Cavour, immersed in green and resembling a tiny city garden - popular with gelato lovers!

Here’s my secret tip: right across the street from the piazza, you can find the famous Cremeria Cavour - once known in the city as Cremeria Funivia, a branch of another ice cream parlor of the same name located much further away from the city - but being, nevertheless, legendary. Lucky for you, you don’t need to go too far away to try some really good artisanal gelato - just pop into Cremeria Cavour in the city center and enjoy some of the best ice cream in town! While there’s not much space inside and you certainly can’t sit there (eating inside gelaterias is not a thing in Italy and you’ll rarely find one that will have a few tables - even those, mostly outside), but fear not: cross the road and take up one of the numerous benches in the piazza, like many locals and tourists alike do all the time. If you look closely enough, you may even spot the statue of Lucio Dalla (a famous Italian musician who originated from Bologna), sitting on one of the benches you and me.

Professors’ tombs in the piazza: it’s hard not to notice the gothic arches in the different parts of the square. These arches actually contain the sarcophaguses - you may think royalty or saints could have been buried there, but alas, these tombs belong to the very first professors of the University of Bologna, known collectively as “glossatori”! Since law was one of the first disciplines taught at the university, the first professors got this name for leaving annotations (glosses) to the Roman law - to explain it better to their students. One of the tombs contains the remains of Rolandino de' Passaggeri (who died in 1305), and another one, that of Egidio Foscherari, dates back to 1289. Other similar tombs could be found behind Basilica di San Francesco and are best seen from Piazza Malpighi.

Going back from Piazza San Domenico, you may want to pass by Galleria Cavour - our very own mini Galleries Lafayette (or Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, depending on which one you prefer), especially during Christmas, when all the luxury stores are beautifully decorated. 

Speaking of Christmas, don’t miss out on a lovely Christmas market in Piazza Minghetti, right around the corner from the gallery, if you visit Bologna in December. This Christmas market is truly unique to Italy, as it has many typical French products and dishes prepared right there. But even though you’re (most likely!) visiting for all the Italian goodness, it’s a fun place to stop by - locals and tourists all like it!

Just a few steps away from Piazza Cavour, you will find another square: Piazza San Domenico, hosting a large church of the same name. The church and the adjacent convent were founded by Saint Dominic, a Spanish priest and founder of the Dominican order - he is, in fact, buried there. By the way, did you know that he is considered the patron saint of astronomers? Many elements in the church actually recall this connection, so you can easily spot celestial bodies and astronomical calendars there. Most importantly, however, is the fact that this church conserves two important (albeit quite small!) statues by Michelangelo, created during his brief stay in Bologna, together with other works by prominent Italian artists, such as Nicola Pisano, Filippo Lippi, Guercino, and Ludovico Carracci. For all music and history lovers, you can even look for the organ once played by Mozart himself, when young Wolfgang was spending his time in Bologna, studying for an entry exam to the Philharmonic Academy of Bologna! The organ is found in the Cappella del Rosario, on the right side of it.

Palazzo Pepoli, and the Museo della Storia di Bologna that it is hosting inside, tells the story of the city from its Etruscan roots to modern times. Visitors can explore exhibitions showcasing key moments, figures, and themes through a mix of objects, images, and multimedia elements. Designed by Mario Bellini and Italo Lupi, the museum offers a unique and immersive way to dive into Bologna's rich history.

Ristorante Teresina in Bologna is a cozy spot where you can dive into traditional Bolognese cuisine with a side of fresh seafood dishes. Located in the heart of Bologna, near Piazza Maggiore and the Two Towers, this restaurant serves up homemade pasta like Tagliatelle al ragu and Tortelloni burro e salvia, along with mouthwatering mains such as Tagliata di manzo and Pesce fresco. Don't forget to save room for their delicious homemade desserts! With a warm and welcoming atmosphere, Ristorante Teresina is a must-visit for a taste of authentic Italian flavors or for a romantic evening out, thanks to their inviting outdoor seating in a courtyard.