The basilica of Sant'Eustorgio is also known as the church of the Three Wise Men as it was built in the 4th century to house the bones of the Three Kings. The church is one of the oldest in the city and for many years was an important stop for pilgrims on their journey to Rome or the ‘Holy Land’.
It is said that during a raid by Frederick Barbarossa in 1164 the sacred remains of the Three Kings were moved and hidden in the neighbouring church of San Giorgio in Palazzo to protect them. However, Barbarossa’s imperial chancellor ended up seizing possession of the bodies and decided to transfer them to Cologne, where they are still kept in Cologne cathedral. It wasn’t until the early 1900’s when a few fragments of the remains and garments were sent back to Sant'Eustorgio, but you can still see the large yet empty marble sarcophagus which remains inside the basilica. I would recommend spending some time walking around the church and admiring its design, particularly the first tomb you encounter after the entrance which showcases a glass display case with bones inside.
One of the most remarkable things about this church is the exquisite Portinari Chapel, which can only be accessed by purchasing a ticket. Built in 1462 this was the first renaissance chapel in Milan, which Pigello Portinari, a Florentine director of the Medici Bank in Milan, commissioned due to his devotion to St. Peter of Verona, whose remains had already been laid to rest in the church within an extraordinary gothic marble ‘ark’. Once the Portinari Chapel was completed the tomb was moved inside and now sits as the focal point of the room. On the right-hand corner you can find the unique carving of the three faced women ‘Prudence’ showing the three stages of life: youth as a young girl, maturity as the present and an old lady symbolising the past.
The magnificent renaissance chapel is beautifully designed with a rainbow-coloured dome and is frescoed with masterpieces by the great Lombard artist Vicenzo Foppa, showcasing various life events of St. Peter of Verona. One particular scene is extremely interesting where you can see a depiction of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus each with a pair of devil horns. This is said to be inspired by a story in which St. Peter’s unwavering faith allowed him to see the devil in disguise when other men could not. After years of neglect, the paintings were rediscovered in the late 19th century and restored in the early 20th century.
Further to the chapel you can also visit the paleo-Christian cemetery which is located beneath the basilica. During accidental excavations in the Middle Ages this late antique burial ground was uncovered and eventually made into a museum.
Step into a piece of Milan's ancient history at the Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio, a place that feels both grand and intimately peaceful. You'll be walking through one of the city's oldest churches, a site of pilgrimage for centuries, famously said to have once housed the relics of the Three Magi. Don't miss the breathtaking Portinari Chapel, a masterpiece of Renaissance art that feels like a hidden gem. It's a serene escape from the city's bustle, where layers of history unfold with every step you take.
