Vegan in Thailand

Eating vegan in Thailand is actually not as uncommon as one might think, although it might not look the same as it does in most western countries.

In Thailand the term "jay" (เจ), which translates to "eat no animal products"/vegetarian is a widely practised, accepted and respected diet choice. Being jay actually comes from the originally Chinese Buddhist-Taoist ritual of not eating animal products. The practice is about keeping the body pure and clean and also excludes things like onion, garlic and other smelly foods from the diet as well. Many monks practise the jay diet.

Due to the popularity of the jay diet, every city in Thailand normally has at least a few jay restaurants, which is incredible news for vegan travellers.

The jay restaurants are per standard 100% vegan and also omit garlic and onion. They are also the most reasonably priced restaurants you'll find and often packed with locals.

Below is an example of a typical jay restaurant:

They often (but not always) decorate in yellow and red and have the characteristic "17" signs. The 17 on the flag literally means jay/vegetarian, but I really think they look like the number 17, so that's usually what I like to call them. 🙈

You can find the "17" sign everywhere, from restaurants to food stalls to even products in the supermarket. It always means that they are "jay diet" approved (aka vegan).

How to navigate a jay restaurant:

Find jay restaurants nearby by literally typing in "vegetarian" or the jay symbol เจ on Google maps. Sometimes they're listed on Happy Cow too but not always.

Jay restaurants almost always consist of a buffet where you can choose 1, 2 or 3 dishes with rice. Prices usually range from 35 baht - 50 baht(0.90€-1.30€/1 - 1.50USD) per meal, depending on how many dishes you choose. They often have prices written on the wall/by the counter, or otherwise you can just ask (with Google Translate if needed).

Many Thais choose to eat jay for breakfast/lunch which is why a lot of jay restaurants open very early but also close around 2 pm. Some stay open for dinner too (yay!).

How to order in jay restaurants:

1. Go up to the buffet counter

2. They usually ask if you want rice. When you say yes they dish it first.

3. Signalise with your fingers/say how many dishes you want and then point at the dishes you choose.

4. They plate your chosen dishes and then hand you the plate. Done!

You commonly get a small bowl of soup with your meal, as well as free water. You'll have to get the water yourself though. There's often a water jug somewhere in the restaurant.

Jay restaurants also often serve dishes like noodle soups and sometimes à la carte dishes too. These menu options will often be written on the wall.

If you eat in a non-jay restaurants or just want to make sure, here are useful phrases to remember (written as you'd pronounce them):

Nom = milk

Khai = egg

Nam plaa = fish sauce

So now to say without ___, you say:

mai mee = no have

No milk = mai mee nom

(= no have milk)

Mai mee khai = no egg

Mai sai nam plaa = no fish sauce (mai sai is another way of saying no have, used here instead, don't ask me why)

The jay diet is so widely recognised in Thailand that basically everyone will understand what you're asking for if you tell them you're "jay", however, the correct word for ‘vegan’ is Mạngs ̄ wirạti – pronounced, mung-sa-wee-rart and it is also widely accepted and understood, so you can try that as well. Especially if you'd like to order a dish with onion or garlic.

Fun vegan food to try from street stalls and markets:

Lychee juice, sugarcane juice, fried bananas, fruit shakes and sweet potato balls!