Conveniently central but quiet with it, AlmaLusa (or ‘Portuguese soul’) is a boutique hotel set in the corner of Lisbon’s peaceful Municipal Square, opposite City Hall and in the middle of Bairro Alto. Most of the building dates from the 18th century when its ground floor housed the busy stables. In a nod to that, the theme here is rustic, with bare, partly stone walls and ceilings, exposed iron girders and earthy décor: brushed brown leather, distressed wood and Moroccan-style embroidered cushions.

Rooms vary in shape – ours was tremendously long – and all the finishes are smart and at times a touch kooky: an oversized bed and canvas armchair, along with a Moorish mirrored chest of drawers and natty bookcase wallpaper. Best of all are the shuttered windows that look down over the square: be sure to ask for a plaza-facing room.

At some point during your stay, sit out in the square and feel the sunshine on your face, whether at one of deli-restaurant Delfina’s alfresco tables or the pavilion café just in front that serves very reasonable ice creams and pitas (and to which the hotel Wi-Fi usefully extends).