Meet the Medici - Itinerary 1
1 dag

What you'll do

As you arrive to Florence, you will undoubtedly get into the historic carousel of famous names and faces that have left their legacy in Florence. But one family stands out: and I’m talking about the Medici family. In reality, I could talk about Medici so much that I should probably write a separate guide book exploring their history more in-depth (and I will, one day!) - but being in Florence, you can’t escape the signs of their presence in the city. Medici are hugely responsible for the fame Florence has today. And it was no other than Lorenzo de’ Medici, nicknamed the Magnificent, who brought all the exceptional minds together to this city. First his father, Cosimo il Vecchio, and then Lorenzo, acted as patrons of artistic and scientific geniuses, such as Filippo Brunelleschi, Sandro Botticelli, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Niccolò Machiavelli, Leonardo da Vinci and even Galilelo among many others (remember all these names, we’ll meet them later on our walk!) - and officially inspiring the Italian Renaissance era.

This itinerary will introduce you to some of the most important landmarks linked to the Medici family - and while it will be enriched with more places in other itineraries, this one will provide a great introduction to the family that has changed the course of history.

Along the way, we will also stop by for some food, coffee, and drinks with great views, so a great food/landmarks ratio is guaranteed :)

Day 1

As you arrive to Florence, you will undoubtedly get into the historic carousel of famous names and faces that have left their legacy in Florence. But one family stands out: and I’m talking about the Medici family. In reality, I could talk about Medici so much that I should probably write a separate guide book exploring their history more in-depth (and I will, one day!) - but being in Florence, you can’t escape the signs of their presence in the city. Medici are hugely responsible for the fame Florence has today. And it was no other than Lorenzo de’ Medici, nicknamed the Magnificent, who brought all the exceptional minds together to this city. First his father, Cosimo il Vecchio, and then Lorenzo, acted as patrons of artistic and scientific geniuses, such as Filippo Brunelleschi, Sandro Botticelli, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Niccolò Machiavelli, Leonardo da Vinci and even Galilelo among many others (remember all these names, we’ll meet them later on our walk!) - and officially inspiring the Italian Renaissance era.

An ancient Tuscan family, whose wealth was initially derived from the textile trade, the Medici rose to power after being able to fund the Medici Bank, which became the largest bank in Europe in the 15th century. While remaining citizens of Florence rather than official rulers all the way until the 16th century, the Medici family had tremendous influence in the city and dominated the Florentine government. No wonder this family has produced four popes and two queens of France, as well as acquired the hereditary titles of Dukes of Florence and Grand Dukes of Tuscany.

For inspiration: before coming to Florence, I highly recommend you to watch the Medici drama series! It’s streaming on Netflix and Prime Video (in Italy and a few other selected countries), and I promise you’ll be enchanted. This is such an underrated historical drama masterpiece, with exceptional acting, stunning Tuscan backdrops, gripping plot, and breathtaking soundtrack. It may not always be historically accurate (although it is pretty much accurate, as much as the cinema allows!) but it will be such a delight to your eyes and soul. It will change the way you look at Florence and this family (and no, I’m not being paid by the creators - I’m just a huge fan, and I believe this series is critically underrated!)

And now, get ready to get immersed in the world of the Medici family for a while - the world of splendour, intrigues, and the events that has changed the course of history.

1

Basilica di San Lorenzo

museum

Renaissance art and architecture marvel

As you leave the Medici Chapels, turn around the corner and you’ll find Basilica San Lorenzo, once the duomo of Florence (before the basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore was constructed). Inside you can admire bronze pulpits by Donatello, visit the Sagrestia Vecchia (built by no other but the genius Brunelleschi - and Michelangelo’s Sagrestia Nuova was actually modelled on this one), and don’t miss out on going downstairs to visit the crypt. There, inside an impressive tomb in the very centre of the crypt, lies Cosimo il Vecchio, who was the first to propel the Medici dynasty to its grandeur. Opposite Cosimo’s tomb, you can find a tombstone on the floor, which marks the grave of Donatello - just imagine how much he was admired and respected to get an honour of being buried across Medici’s head of the house!

2

Cappelle Medicee

museum

Magnificent Renaissance Medici family museum

This is one of the best places to learn more about the Medici family, since it has long acted as a tomb for esteemed family members. In fact, from the moment you enter, you are surrounded by the tombstones of Medici family members located in the crypt, and the exhibition of family relics. But the most exciting part lies ahead (or well, on top) - as you get upstairs, you’ll find yourselves in the so-called Cappella dei Principi, an impressive octagonal room with huge sarcophaguses exposed around the chapel. In reality, all these sarcophaguses are empty, with the actual remains of late Medici princes (Cosimo I, Francesco I, and Cosimo II), sealed behind the walls in the crypt.

Curious fact: The Medici family has always been not only powerful but also incredibly ambitious. As we continue our walk around Florence, you will encounter their tendency to grand gestures on numerous occasions, but the story linked to the Medici Chapels is my personal favourite and describes this family’s ambition best. During their numerous trips and pilgrimages to Jerusalem, Medici have tried, and repetitively so, to by the Holy Sepulchre - right, that one. Hold on, I couldn’t believe it either, but the more you’ll get acquainted with the Medici’s legacy, the more it’ll seem like something you’d expect from this family. The idea was to buy it and bring to Florence, to position in the family’s chapel (hence its enormous size, probably?). They did not succeed (and this, somehow, comes as a bigger surprise to me than the fact they came with the idea), but the chapel is here and you can admire its beauty.

And that’s not all - after the main chapel, go straight to the Sagrestia Nuova (Michelangelo’s project and one of his greatest architectural works), where you’ll find the actual tombs of some of the most important Medici. Among them - Lorenzo the Magnificent and his brother Giuliano, tragically killed during what is now known as The Pazzi Conspiracy (you can learn more about it in the third itinerary).

3

Laurentian Medici Library

historisch

Historic gem with stunning architecture

Another place to visit inside what is known as the San Lorenzo complex, is the Laurentian Medici Library. Designed by Michelangelo, this places conserves more than 10,000 manuscripts from the Medici’s times. Impressive? Wait until I tell you that you can actually see some of them - although, in the digital format. The library is progressively digitalising its archive and you can now get digital access to many of the manuscripts!

4

Riccardi Medici Palace

museum

Renaissance masterpiece in Florence

Across the street from San Lorenzo, you’ll see the Medici Riccardi Palace. Once being home to one of the most powerful families in Europe, today it hosts a museum (so you can actually visit it!) and the Metropolitan Counsel of Florence. To me, it seems like a beautiful nod to the Florentine past - you couldn’t find a more appropriate place! Inside, you can walk the rooms that the Medici family members have once walked, see the exhibits of some ancient furniture and visit the beautiful Cappella dei Magi that you’ll recognise from the series. To cal it iconic would be an understatement, and I recommend you to visit this place even if it’s your first time learning about Medici - it’s one of the best examples of the Renaissance palaces in the city (search for the other one in the third itinerary!), and will give you the taste of (rich) life in Florence back in the day!

Lunch break! It’s time for lunch - but it’s a busy day sightseeing, so let me take you to one of my favourite places for lunch on the go. Don’t worry though, it’ll be one of the tastiest street-food lunches you’ve ever had, promise. If you’d like to sit down for a proper lunch (or need ideas for a more formal dinner), check out the section Where to Eat and Drink. And if you’re still here and up to some GREAT food from a local food market, we’re heading to Mercato Centrale, described by Google as “gourmet food hall” - and I couldn’t find a better description! Some of my favourite places include:

5

La Schiacciata Firenze

restaurant

Authentic Tuscan street food sandwiches

La Schiacciata Firenze in Florence is a must-visit spot for sandwich lovers looking for a taste of authentic Tuscan street food. Located in Mercato Centrale, this cozy joint serves up mouthwatering sandwiches made with fresh, local ingredients. The owner, Massimiliano, is known for his friendly service and passion for creating delicious combinations like the Firenze La Prisma and Sorento. Whether you're craving a classic schiacciata or a gluten-free option, this place has got you covered. Don't miss out on this gem for a truly satisfying culinary experience in the heart of Florence.

After the Mercato, move towards the Accademia Gallery. This is probably one of the most famous art galleries in Italy, and for a very good reason: Michelangelo’s David is the star of its collection and attracts countless visitors every year. Besides, you can enjoy a rich collection of Renaissance paintings as well as temporary collections.

6

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze

museum

One of the most famous art galleries in Italy

This is probably one of the most famous art galleries in Italy, and for a very good reason: Michelangelo’s David is the star of its collection and attracts countless visitors every year. Besides, you can enjoy a rich collection of renaissance paintings as well as temporary collections, but I’d recommend you to choose a separate day to visit the gallery - it’s rather big, and if you want to thoroughly explore it, it’s worth a day when you’re not seeing too many other things.

7

Libreria Gozzini

Bezienswaardigheden bekijken

Rare antique books in Florence

Right across the entrance to the Accademia Gallery, you’ll find a little and hard-to-notice bookshop, Libreria Gozzini. This is one of my most recent finds in the city and it’s a paradise for all antique books lovers! The entire bookshop is dedicated to the antique books (some of them are so ancient in fact, that I was afraid to touch them to be honest), the atmosphere there is incredible (perfect for all dark academia fans), and you can find incredibly good bargains for absolutely unique and very rare books.

8

Convento di San Marco

Bezienswaardigheden bekijken

Religious complex with artistic treasures

Next up, as you wander deeper into the university area, keep your eyes for the San Marco convent. This place still conserves the atmosphere of Florence back in the day - a mix of spirituality, art, and politics. Ever since it was established in late 13th century, this convent has been at the centre of Florentine cultural, religious, and political life. Home to many prominent religious figures, this place became a synonym of art during the life of Lorenzo the Magnificent. Lorenzo was a notable patron of the arts in Florence, and it came as no surprise that he got one of the best sculptors of his time, Bertoldo di Giovanni (who was Donatello’s student and later became one of Michelangelo’s teachers), to be the director of the art school located inside the San Marco complex. Lorenzo’s idea was to bring together talented young artists, sculptors and thinkers to create the new era for humanity (see why he can be officially considered the godfather of the Renaissance?). The courtyards, gardens, and galleries were filled with this creative and innovative spirit. Today you can visit the museum of San Marco to see the beautiful Renaissance frescoes and artworks, and of course, to walk the same rooms where once the artists like Michelangelo were studying.

9

Piazza della Santissima Annunziata

Bezienswaardigheden bekijken

Charming Renaissance square in Florence

Two steps away from the San Marco complex, you can find a real hidden gem of Florence. Although, to be fair, not many tourists know about the beauty of the complex we’ve just been to, either (and even less people visit the Medici palace!), so as always, I’m taking you places where you’ll hardly ever find crowds of people. If you take Via Cesare Battisti from Piazza di San Marco, you’ll find yourselves in Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, and this whole square alone is a literal treasure. But let’s go slowly, there’s so much to see and do there!

An impossible quest for you: as you arrive to the piazza, you’ll notice the big statue in the middle, facing the Duomo. If you look closely, you’ll notice that this statue of Ferdinando I de’ Medici is decorated with numerous bees! Locals say it is impossible to count them all without touching or indicating them - will you accept the challenge? Try to count them without indicating and then, take a selfie in front of the statue (or take a pic of the bees!), post it to your Instagram stories and tag me (@dramatically.expatic) to share the results!

A (true) ghost story: if you stand facing the statue (with your back to the Duomo that can be seen in the distance), try to locate the red palace located at the far left angle of the piazza from where you’re standing. Come close, and pay attention to its windows: it may happen that several windows will be open (based on when you’re visiting) but even when all of them are closed, one of the top right windows will always be half-open. Known as la finestra sempre aperta (the window that is always open), there’s a tragic love legend link to this palace. The legend says there was a young bride living in this palace, whose future husband went to war - and never returned home, presumably having met his end on the battle field. The young lady was inconsolable - and spent the rest of her days sitting there, at the window, waiting for him, refusing to admit or accept his death. She died of sorrow shortly afterwards, but when the family members tried to close the window she used to spend her days at, strange things began to happen. Objects were moving around on their own, strange noises resembling moans and cries were heard, and even some furniture has changed its position. Once the window was reopened, the paranormal events stopped. Apparently, the family (and the future generations) have decided not to disturb the soul of a poor young girl and ever since have kept the window half-open.

10

The SS. Annunziata di Firenze

Bezienswaardigheden bekijken

Renaissance Catholic basilica in Florence

On the other side of the piazza you’ll find Basilica della Santissima Annunziata. While the central portal on the facade of this church is decorated by Ghirlandaio’s mosaics, I also recommend you to enter the church (it’s free) - inside you’ll find an unusually dark, evocative interiors.

11

Hospital of Innocents

museum

Historic Renaissance art museum in Florence

But I’ve left the most curious part of this piazza till the end. When facing the church, pay attention to the impressive building on your right - you can’t miss it if you search for the little sculptures of babies all around the front loggia. Known as the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents), this place is actually Europe’s oldest foundling hospital! For centuries, it acted as home to the abandoned children. Commissioned by one of wealthier guilds in the city, the Silk Guild of Florence, in 1419, this places was deigned by no other than Filippo Brunelleschi himself! The guild decided to create this orphanage as a charity institution in response to an increased number of abandoned children in Florence - some accounts even say that corpses of children were sometimes found in the Arno river! In this hospital, the babies and children were cared for, fed, raised, and taught the various skills. Boys were taught work skills based on their abilities, while girls were taught the typical domestic skills and were provided with dowries, should they decided to get married (those who didn’t want to marry had an option to become nuns or get training in the manual labour). Later, the girls were tried to be placed into influential and even noble families for marriage. To encourage leaving the unwanted children there rather than killing them, a wheel for secret refuge was placed there - and you can still see it in the left corner of the loggia - so that parents could leave their children anonymously. The rotating wheel would then bring the baby inside, without the parent being seen.

Today you can visit the museum inside ex-orphanage, housing important Renaissance artworks and historical accounts, but there’s another secret to be uncovered in this building.

What can be better than finishing your itinerary with a cup of coffee or aperitivo in a rooftop bar overlooking the Duomo of Florence? That’s exactly what you can do from Caffè del Verone, a bar on the rooftop terrace of the Ospedale degli Innocenti!

12

Caffè del Verone

café

Hidden gem with stunning views

Caffè del Verone is a hidden gem in Florence, tucked away on the top floor of the Orphanage museum. Follow the directions (or take the elevator to the last floor) and you’ll be transported to an absolutely incredible place, with gorgeous views over red-brick Florentine roofs, the dome of one of Florence’s most important landmarks, and the splendid Tuscan hills. This place is the synonym of tranquility and relaxation, and that’s why I wanted to take you here to end this itinerary. Of course, it is also perfect for your instaworthy pics!

Just a quick note though, keep in mind that this place is not particularly budget-friendly. Well, compared to other countries, even the more expensive places in Italy might be more affordable, but comparing to the average prices in Italy, be prepared to pay a little more. A couple of years ago, a glass of aperol spritz there cost around €10 (median price for aperol spritz in Italy is about €5-6, and even less in the Veneto region), while a cup of coffee will cost you around €3-3,50 (an average cup of cappuccino will not exceed €1,80-2 in “regular” places, but even simple coffee shops and bars in busy touristy areas of Florence can have similar prices - or even higher). Are the views worth it? ABSOLUTELY. And chances are, you’ll return to this place again (for me, it’s a go-to when I’m in Florence, because the experience of sipping my coffee while looking at the Duomo is simply unparalleled).

I hope you enjoyed this itinerary - and now, it’s time to move on to the next one!