JUCY is one of New Zealand's most used car and campervan rental companies, and their bright green and purple vehicles are hard to miss on our roads! If you're flying into Queenstown, JUCY offers a free shuttle service from the airport to the branch, making pick-up and drop-off super convenient.

If you want to hit the road in a campervan, JUCY has a range of options, including the self-contained Chaser and Condo, which are perfect for the quintessential New Zealand adventure.

My experience

I’ve used JUCY twice to travel around the South Island. In 2020 I rented a car, and in 2022 I had a self-contained campervan for two weeks. The reviews I saw on JUCY's Google page scared the pants off me initially as there's a 50/50 split between good and bad comments. I had a good experience with them and found them really convenient. Plus, they were cheaper than other rental companies available. However, if you have more money to spare, you might like to choose a different rental company instead.

Fergbaker is the most famous bakery in Queenstown and is usually packed with people ordering everything from pastries and pies to fresh-baked bread and barista-made coffee.

They don't have a dine-in menu, but they're perfect for a snacky breakfast and coffee while wandering around town or road tripping to Milford Sound.

There’s no shortage of beautiful viewpoints on the South Island, and Devil's Staircase is easily one of the most popular. This short winding section of the Southern Scenic Route follows the edge of Lake Wakatipu, offering incredible 180° views of the lake and surrounding mountains. It’s a photographer's dream!

You can visit Devils Staircase at any time of day, but sunrise and sunset are particularly lovely. There’s something special about watching golden-hour sunshine hit the mountains and reflect on the lake.

When you arrive, the lookout point has plenty of parking so you can safely pull over and stretch your legs. However, it isn’t signposted from Queenstown via State Highway 6, which is a bit of a pain. However, it’s almost always busy, so keep an eye out for crowds.

Personal note

I wouldn’t bother coming here unless you're already driving to Milford Sound.

If you are in Queenstown and would like to drive out of your way for an amazing view, I’d recommend heading down Queenstown-Glenorchy Road to Bennett’s Bluff Lookout instead. Glenorchy is a must-visit on any Queenstown itinerary anyway, and Bennett’s Bluff offers a much more dramatic perspective of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains.

There’s something special about small-town food trucks and the coffee-bomb in Garston is no exception! I’ve only visited this coffee cart once so I can’t vouch for consistency. But, when I was there, their staff were super-friendly and the menu was full of delicious, barista-made coffee, burgers, slicense and cakes.

If this is your first time visiting New Zealand, you should try a whitebait fritter! They are a Southland delicacy and an iconic dish made from tiny whitebait fish, eggs, salt and flour fried until crispy and golden. Locals love them, and you can buy them here. I highly recommend giving them a go!

Lake Te Anau is the largest lake in the South Island and the second largest in New Zealand. It marks the beginning of Fiordland National Park, a corner of Aotearoa so beautiful I could cry just thinking about it.

There are so many places to admire the lake, but one of the best lookout points is Te Anau Lions Lookout. Unlike other popular photo spots around Te Anau, Lions Lookout is much quieter and more peaceful. This viewpoint is a 5-minute detour off the main road in and out of Te Anau and gives stunning 360° views over the town, Lake Te Anau, and the Southern Alps.

How to get there

The lookout is located along Kepler Track Road, just five minutes from Te Anau town centre. To get there, follow Golf Course Road towards the Fiordland Golf Club, then turn onto Kepler Track Road. There is a small gravel pull-off area where you can park your car, but there are no toilets.

Lord of the Rings fans, this one’s for you! Eglinton Valley in Fiordland National Park is a must-visit stop on the way to Milford Sound. Even if you’ve never watched The Lord of the Rings, you’ll still be blown away by the sheer scale of this place. The valley was carved out by glaciers thousands of years ago, leaving behind dramatic, sweeping landscapes that feel straight out of a fantasy world.

One moment, you’re driving through dense southern beech forest, and the next, you emerge into a valley with towering snow-capped mountain peaks on either side.

If you are a fan, you’ll love knowing that the Eglinton Mountains played the role of the Misty Mountains in The Lord of the Rings trilogy. It's just one of hundreds of filming locations around Aotearoa.

Things to do in Eglington Valley

There are a few places to pull over and take in the views. If you want to stretch your legs, there are some great walking tracks nearby, including the Lake Gunn Nature Walk and Knobs Flat Waterfall.

Accommodation on Milford Road

If you're looking for somewhere to stay overnight along Milford Road, the Eglinton Valley Campground is beautiful. It’s the only serviced campsite before Milford Sound and has everything you need for a comfy night. There’s no WiFi (a good excuse to turn off your Teams notifications) but lots of amenities like a full kitchen, hot showers, laundry, and even a little store with basic groceries (no shops in Milford Sound!). I think the real highlight is their bush baths! These are outdoor baths/hot tubs where you can soak outside for $35 per couple.

Facilities on Milford Road

If you’re not planning to stay overnight, make sure to stop at Knobs Flat to check the road conditions (especially in winter!), and attach your snow chains if needed. There is also a pay phone and a campervan sewage disposal site. It’s also the last spot with flush toilets before Milford Sound. So, if you're not keen on using the quintessential New Zealand "long drops" it's worth stopping here.

The Divide is a very basic rest stop at the start (or end) of the Routeburn Track in Fiordland National Park. It’s also where you’ll start the walk to Key Summit, one of the best short hikes in the area (7.7km/3 hours return).

There are toilets at the trailhead but no phone reception, so make sure to download any maps or info you need before heading into Fiordland.

You cannot camp overnight at The Divide and doing so comes with a hefty fine! If you're looking for a place to stay nearby, I recommend Cascade Creek DOC Campsite ($) or Eglinton Valley Campground ($$).

Nothing beats waking up in the morning surrounded by mountains, and the Cascade Creek DOC campsite in Fiordland National Park is one of the most beautiful (and cheapest!) places to do that.

This is a large, basic campsite with 120 sites and costs $15 per night (DOC campsite pass is accepted here). You'll find long drop/compostable toilets, picnic tables, a cooking shelter, and running water in the summer months.

You cannot book Cascade Creek campsite, and it can get pretty busy in the peak summer months, so it's worth arriving before 3 pm/4 pm. But because there is so much space, it's unlikely to be fully booked. 

The Lake Gunn Nature Walk is one of Fiordland National Park’s easiest short walks. This loop track winds through a red beech forest, leading to views of Lake Gunn, Eglinton Valley, and the surrounding Fiordland mountains. The moss-covered trees and mountain peaks make it feel like you’ve stepped straight into Middle Earth and in a way, you have! The Eglinton Mountains represented the Misty Mountains in The Lord of the Rings.

Track overview

Difficulty: Very easy

Length: 1.4km

Time: 30 minutes

There are various lookout points along the loop track. About 10 minutes into the trail, you’ll reach a side path leading to a beautiful stony beach with incredible views across Lake Gunn. If you’re lucky, you might spot some of New Zealand’s native birds, like Pīwakawaka (fantail) or Toutouwai (South Island robin).

If you’re visiting from mid-to-late November through early January, you’ll be here during lupin season! While Fiordland doesn’t have as many lupins as the Mackenzie Region, you can often see them scattered around Lake Gunn. If you're visiting during the winter, the track can get pretty muddy, so bring a pair of good shoes.

How to get here

The trail starts at Cascade Creek car park along Milford Road (SH94). There’s plenty of parking, as well as a DOC campsite if you want a cheap place to stay overnight. There are toilets here, but no other facilities.

The Homer Tunnel is a 1.2km tunnel that cuts through the Darran Mountain Range at the Homer Saddle and is the only way to get between Milford Sound and the rest of New Zealand.

Before the tunnel, the only way in was by boat or an incredibly long trek through the mountains! It took almost 20 years to complete and finally opened in 1953.

Since the tunnel is a one-way system, you’ll often have to wait at the traffic lights, especially in summer when there’s more traffic. We visited in September (outside of the peak season) and waited about 20 minutes, but honestly, it didn’t feel like a waste of time.

The views from the car are incredible. There are towering cliffs, waterfalls and if you're lucky, a misty, rainy atmosphere that makes everything feel extra dramatic. Fiordland might be the only place in the world where you hope it rains!

Hidden deep in Fiordland National Park on the southwest corner of the South Island is Piopiotahi (Milford Sound), the “Unofficial 8th Wonder of the World” and a place widely considered to be New Zealand’s most stunning natural attraction.

In my opinion, your South Island itinerary isn't complete until you've added Milford Sound. It's an outdoor lover's dream and home to ancient forests, towering peaks, waterfalls, alpine lakes, fjords, and some of the most famous hiking tracks in the world.

I've only visited once, but I've dreamt about it every day since. I felt dwarfed by the sheer size of the place, and staring at the towering Fiordland mountains made me feel like an insignificant speck of dust in the grand scheme of the universe. It’s a strange, yet freeing feeling and one of the reasons I love the South Island so much. No matter how often I relive our trip, I’m always overwhelmed by how spectacular and awe-inspiring it was.

What's the weather like in Milford Sound?

In short, it's rainy. Fiordland National Park has a ridiculous 182 days of rain per year, which makes it one of the wettest places in Aotearoa. However, Milford Sound might be the only place in NZ where you actually want it to rain. Lady Bowen Falls and Stirling Falls are two of the most famous waterfalls in the world, and lots of rain means you'll see them in full force, as well as countless small waterfalls cascading down the mountains.

How long should I stay in Milford Sound?

While you can visit Milford Sound on a day trip from Queenstown, by tour bus, or on a scenic flight, I highly recommend staying overnight. There’s something so special about having one of the most beautiful places in the world all to yourself after the day-trippers have gone home. You'll stargaze beneath mountains, wake up to the sound of native birds and fall into bed after a long day exploring. Milford Lodge is the only campsite in the area, and there is extremely limited accommodation across Fiordland. If you want to stay overnight, you’ll need to book your stay asap!

When should I visit Milford Sound?

This is a tricky question because it depends on what you want to do while you're here!

Winter and spring are the best times to see the waterfalls come alive, as there's more rain, and the snow begins to melt. However, if you want to hike the Milford, Routeburn or Kepler Tracks, you need to come during Great Walk Season, which runs between the end of October and April.

We visited in September. There was still a lot of snow, plenty of waterfalls, and it was much quieter than other times of the year. We couldn't do some of the bigger walks, but managed to hike Key Summit (part of the Routeburn Track) and Lake Marian.

Milford Lodge is hands down one of the most incredible places I’ve ever stayed. You’ll sleep in Fiordland's world-famous rainforest, stargaze and wake up to stunning views of the mountains. 

There are a couple of different accommodation options depending on how you’re travelling.

Premium Rainforest Campervan Park: This is Milford Sound’s only campground and a must-do when you’re travelling through Aotearoa. I cannot begin to tell you how beautiful this place is. Their campground has a full kitchen, communal living area and laundry facilities. Their bathroom and showers even have underfloor heating!

Mountain View Chalets: They look like something straight out of Grand Designs. Plus, their staff will bring your breakfast straight to your door each morning. Talk about five-star service!

How much does it cost? (August 2024)

Mountain View Chalet: $855 per night

Campsite: $120 per night.

Expensiiiivvvve. But, if it's in your budget, it’s 100% worth it. Staying overnight in Milford Sound means you get to experience this magical place without the usual crowds. You’ll star gaze, watch the sunset and soak up the peace and beauty of the fiords in a way that day trippers simply can’t. It’s still one of my all-time favourite New Zealand memories.

Pio Pio Restaurant is located at Milford Lodge, in the heart of Fiordland National Park. Milford Lodge is already one of the most incredible places I’ve ever stayed, but Pio Pio takes it to the next level. As Milford Sound’s only restaurant, it’s small, cosy, and the perfect spot to unwind after a big day of exploring.

The menu focuses on fresh, local ingredients and features some of New Zealand’s best produce like Fiordland wild venison, Southland lamb, Stewart Island salmon, and delicious vegetarian options.

Lunch and dinner are available every day and if you’re staying in a Mountain View Chalet, you can even have an exclusive breakfast delivered straight to your door. Talk about five star service!