A few kilometers from Cabo Vilán, the village of Camariñas sits at the mouth of a ría — one of the drowned river valleys that give this coast its distinctive shape. It is a working fishing village with almost no tourist infrastructure, a harbor full of small boats, and a tradition of handmade lace that the local women have been producing for generations.

You do not need to stop long. But if you are passing through at lunchtime, this is where you eat — whatever the restaurant near the harbor is serving, which will involve fish caught that morning in waters you just stood above.