A few kilometers east of Zumaia, the village of Getaria occupies a small peninsula connected to the mainland — a layout so common on this coast that it starts to feel like an architectural preference rather than a geographic coincidence.

Getaria is the birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano, the navigator who completed the first circumnavigation of the globe after Magellan died in the Philippines. There is a statue. The village has not made a theme park of this fact, which is to its credit.

What Getaria has made something of is txakoli — the local white wine, slightly sparkling, slightly acidic, produced on the steep green hillsides above the village and consumed in large quantities in the bars along the harbor. It is poured from height in the same way Asturian cider is poured — aerating as it falls, served in wide glasses, drunk young and cold.

Walk the village, walk out along the harbor wall to the small lighthouse at its tip, and sit somewhere with a glass of txakoli and whatever the kitchen is doing with the fish that came in this morning. Getaria has several restaurants that have been serving the same grilled fish — besugo, rodaballo — for decades. The simplest option is usually the right one.

This is a lunch stop. Give it time.