How to Choose Where to Stay in La Réunion

We stayed in Saint-Leu because that’s where our friends live. They’re locals, they’ve lived the island inside-out, and they picked that spot long before we arrived. And honestly, it was a smart choice. Sunny skies, slow mornings, an easy stretch of coast that invites you to do as much or as little as you like. Everything felt accessible.

But travel humbles you.

On my birthday, we found ourselves on the opposite side of the island, spontaneous, a bit smug, and nowhere to stay. We hadn’t booked in advance. It was getting dark. The quiet coastal towns we’d loved earlier in the day suddenly felt empty and shut down. We weren’t in a crisis, but we were definitely stuck.

And then there were the nights in the highlands, during our longer hikes. Thin air, early dinners, cold showers, and sunrises that are worth the aching legs. Completely different vibe, completely different pace.

That’s when it hit me: La Réunion isn’t a place where you pick a base and pinball out. Where you stay actually shapes how you travel. The island’s geography, traffic, light, and weather patterns all matter. And they shift fast.

So if you’re wondering where to stay (west, east, or high up in the cloud belt), here’s the breakdown, based on experience, not theory.

Stay on the West Coast if You Want Beaches, Sunsets, and Easy Day Trips

If your trip is about slow mornings, safe swims, dry weather, and easy drives, the West is the logical home base. It’s where locals go to escape the mist and where you’ll actually use your sunglasses.

Key towns: Saint-Leu, L’Hermitage, La Saline-les-Bains, Boucan Canot

What it’s like:

• Dry, predictable weather most of the year

• Calm lagoon beaches, safe for swimming

• Restaurants, markets, and activities within walking distance

• Sunset views every night if you stay west-facing.

Who it suits:

• Families

• Swimmers and snorkelers

• First-timers to the island

• Travelers who want comfort with the option to explore.

The trade-offs:

• Longer drives to the island’s rawest natural sites

• Higher accommodation prices, especially beachfront

• Can feel a little disconnected from rural, Creole life if you don’t go inland.

👉 Stay here if you want to base yourself in one spot and make casual day trips.

Stay on the East Coast if You Want Raw Beauty, Lava, and Local Life

The east is all texture: lava cliffs, misty forests, crashing waves. It rains more. It’s greener. And it doesn’t pretend to be anything it’s not. You come here to feel the island's pulse, not to be catered to.

Key towns: Sainte-Rose, Saint-Philippe, Saint-Benoît, Bras-Panon

What it’s like:

• Humid, lush, dramatic landscapes

• Botanical gardens, waterfalls, lava tubes, vanilla plantations

• Fewer hotels, more gîtes and family-run stays

• Local rhythms with early closures, homemade food, and Creole spoken first.

Who it suits:

• People craving nature, not polish

• Hikers, photographers, and food lovers

• Travelers who want to feel like guests, not customers.

The trade-offs:

• You must book ahead. Options are limited and often offline.

• It rains. Sometimes sideways. Sometimes all day.

• You need to enjoy slowness... and sometimes mud.

👉 Stay here if you want to eat vanilla duck in a forest gîte, fall asleep to frogs and wind, and be up before the sun.

Stay in the Highlands if You’re Hiking or Want Peace and Cool Nights

The highlands are a different planet. They're quiet, cool, often clouded-in, and full of footpaths instead of beach bars. You’re not coming here for luxury. You’re coming for silence, altitude, and trails that start before sunrise.

Key areas: Hell-Bourg, La Plaine des Palmistes, La Plaine des Cafres, Cilaos

What it’s like:

• Crisp air, misty afternoons, clear starry nights

• Simple accommodation. Think gîtes, refuges, camping and lodges

• Base for major hikes: Piton de la Fournaise, Roche Écrite, Grand Étang

• Dinner is often a set menu, and lights go out early.

Who it suits:

• Hikers and slow travelers

• Anyone needing a digital detox and real rest

• Travelers planning volcano days or sunrise hikes.

The trade-offs:

• You’ll be driving. A lot.

• Not much nightlife (unless you count frogs and barking dogs).

• Colder and wetter, so pack layers.

👉 Stay here if you want your mornings misty, your evenings quiet, and your days full of trails, not towns.

Where I Stayed and What I Learned

We were based in Saint-Leu, and I still think it’s one of the smartest choices for first-time visitors. The sun shines more, the food scene’s decent, and nothing feels far. Our local friends had it right.

But on my birthday, we found ourselves stranded on the east coast with no booking, no dinner, and very few lights still on. The East doesn’t do spontaneity. You need to plan. That night, though we had an amazing dinner, we lucked out on the accommodation. We understood why trip planning really does matter here.

We also stayed in the highlands during hikes, and it was a whole other rhythm. Everyone’s in bed by 9, because everyone’s up before 5. You wake up to cold tile, hot coffee, and that silence only found above the cloud line. It's not flashy, but it's honest. And it's the only way to do volcano days properly.

Next time? I’d still start in Saint-Leu. But I’d book two nights in Saint-Philippe, another in Hell-Bourg, and give each area the attention it deserves, with rest built in.

So, Where Should You Stay in La Réunion?

You could stay in one place. You really could. But you’ll miss something.

My advice? Pick two regions. Give the island time to show you its moods. Stay west for ease, east for rawness, and high up if you’re walking into the clouds.

Because on this island, where you sleep really does shape what kind of day you wake up to.