Tattoo-friendly ONSEN town: Kinosaki
2 dias

What you'll do

Kinosaki Onsen Town is a charming spot known for its seven public hot springs. What sets it apart is its tattoo-friendly policy, a departure from the norm in Japan. Here, you can enjoy the healing and relaxing waters without being turned away due to tattoos, a welcome change.

The town's ambiance is traditional, with willow-lined canals and picturesque bridges. As you stroll through the streets in a provided yukata, you can easily hop between its public onsens, each offering a unique bathing experience.

The open-minded approach to tattoos enhances the relaxation factor. You can soak in the therapeutic hot springs without any worries. After enjoying the baths, explore the town's historic streets, local shops, and indulge in delicious cuisine, including Kinosaki's famous Tajima beef and fresh seafood.

  • You do NOT have to rent a car to get to Kinosaki onsen

  • Travel time from Kyoto station by train: 2h 30m /// by car: 2h 40m

  • Travel time from from Osaka station by train: 2h 40m /// by car: 2h 20m

Day 1

1

How to get to Kinosaki onsen

public_transport

Read before your trip

Getting to Kinosaki onsen is actually pretty straight forward and it simply takes a train ride from either Kyoto station or Osaka station (which will be the case in the most cases).
I recommend getting on the Limited Express Kinosakionsen that will get you straight to Kinosaki onsen.

You can buy a ticket and reserve your seat through official JR website (you will need to choose KINOSAKI/KONOTORI/HAMAKAZE train with the Kinosakionsen as the arrival station)

📍 Kyoto station > Kinosaki Onsen station (google maps link)

  • At the time of making this guide, the earliest train leaves at 11:25 am which allows to not rush at all in Kyoto and have a nice breakfast, check-out from your hotel / airbnb and have an early lunch. You will get to Kinosaki at around 2 pm which is perfect for this itinerary.

  • If you would like to arrive a bit earlier then you can take the same route but look for the one where you make a transfer at Fukuchiyama station. Do not hesitate to ask the train station staff for help and directions during your transfer as there will be just 5-7 minutes before the 2nd train leaving.

📍 Osaka station > Kinosaki Onsen station (google maps link)

2

Read before your trip to Kinosaki

Passeio turístico

Read before your trip

  • Kinosaki onsen is really compact and you absolutely do not have to rent a car to get around.

  • All of the 7 public onsens are completely tattoo friendly. It does not matter what size it is, you do not have to cover it with a patch or anything like that.

  • Beware that NOT all hotels with their own onsen are tattoo friendly, so be sure to check all the information on their website in advance (or send an email and ask about it).

  • All of the public onsens have at least one day when they are closed, so definitely check it in advance on their website.

  • You can always check how crowded each onsen is over HERE, so feel free to skip one and come back later as it gets less crowded (since the town is really small it will not take too long to come back).

  • Length of stay: While this is a 2-day, 1-night itinerary, I highly recommend considering a 3-day, 2-night stay in Kinosaki onsen. It is an exceptionally beautiful and charming town, and the ideal way to enjoy it is to take it easy and explore at a leisurely pace. Visit all the recommended public onsens, discover your favorite, and revisit it on another day. For instance, during my trips to onsen towns, I always go to an onsen at least 2-3 times a day.
    I completely understand that some people often aim to visit as many cities in Japan during their trip, so I crafted this itinerary for a balanced experience. However, if you have an extra day to spare, I encourage you to extend your stay to 3 days. Immerse yourself in the Japanese fairy tale of an ancient hot spring town for a more relaxed and enjoyable experience. You won't regret it if you prefer a slower pace during your travels.

  • Most ryokan and hotels in Kinosaki Onsen offer their guests a yukata to wear free of charge during their stay, however I included one yukata rental in the itinerary just in case.

If you arrive before the check-in time, I recommend leaving your bags at the hotel and starting to explore the town right away.

3

Oedo Onsen Monogatari Kinosaki

hotel

Hotel with a large onsen

Although it is about a 10-minute walk from the main streets of Kinosaki, I believe this is one of the best hotels in terms of value. It offers affordable prices, spacious rooms with stunning views, huge variety of Yukata (wiki) and Geta for you to wear around the town during your stay, a relaxing lounge with complimentary snacks and drinks, and a huge restaurant. Plus, the highlight is the expansive onsen with various baths and saunas.

They also run a regular shuttle bus between the center of Kinosaki and the hotel for those who prefer not to walk.

Important note: This hotel's public onsen allows guests to enter with only small tattoos that can be covered by a patch. If your tattoo is larger, you won't be able to use the onsen facilities.

To summarize, while not directly in the center, this hotel provides excellent value with its comfortable amenities, stunning views, and convenient shuttle service. Just keep the tattoo policy in mind for onsen access.

4

Satono Yu Onsen

Primavera quente

Onsen

Satono-Yu Onsen is a great place for a relaxing experience in the ancient mineral waters of Kinosaki. It is one of its seven public onsens and probably my favorite one. By far the largest, it features various baths, including a rotenburo (open-air hot spring) on the upper floor and a sauna.

This onsen has two sections separated for men and women: a Western-style Turkish bath and a Japanese-style bath, regularly rotated between men and women so that everyone can enjoy both sides on different days. Additionally, there is a free footbath available near the entrance.

This onsen is completely tattoo-friendly.

Want to see how busy this onsen is right now? Click HERE

All the restaurants in Kinosaki are located really close to each other so feel free to experience them in any order you want, according to your preferences or the restaurants' reservation availability. For example you might want to have some seafood during lunch and some wagyu for dinner or the other way around.

5

Okesho sengyo & Dinning room Kaichuen

restaurante

Delicious local seafood

Absolutely delicious seafood restaurant that is often referred to as the premier spot for fresh fish and shellfish with affordable prices in Kinosaki

The restaurant is right above the fish market (the entrance is on the left).

6

Kōmoto shōten / 河本商店

shop

Gift shop

This gift shop has a bit of everything, but the main reason for being listed here is that it has an absolutely huge assortment of cute onsen towels with different prints. In my opinion, it is one of the best souvenirs to bring back from an onsen town.

7

Ichi roku hachi iroha yu no machi / 一六八 いろは湯のまち

shop

Ghibli store

A pretty simple gift shop that has a section with Ghibli-themed goods that are worth checking out.

8

Matsugami

café

Egg snack

A pretty common and fun activity for an onsen town is to buy a couple of eggs and boil them yourself in hot spring water. The shop will provide you with everything you might need, including a timer.

They also serve pretty delicious soft ice cream and other snacks.

9

木輪 本店

shop

Woodcraft store

A shop that sells locally made goods crafted from wood is the perfect stop to buy a memento of your visit to Kinosaki Onsen or a souvenir for someone else

10

城崎茶宴 ちゃの湯

shop

Tea shop

The tea shop sells an extremely delicious selection of locally produced Tajima tea. If you enjoy tea or know someone who does, and are looking for a great souvenir, definitely pay this shop a visit.

11

Maruyama Karyo Kinosaki Store

shop

Traditional Japanese snack shop

Maruyama Karyo Kinosaki store offers a huge variety of traditional Japanese snack called Karintō. Karinto is a traditional Japanese snack that is popular for its sweet and crunchy texture. It is made by deep-frying or baking a mixture of flour, sugar, and yeast. The dough is often flavored with soy sauce or molasses, giving it a sweet and savory taste.

Karintō is a Perfect souvenir gift.

They also sell what they call "Post-bath" pudding. This pudding is made with local milk, fresh cream, and eggs delivered fresh every morning. The name originates from the Japanese culture of drinking milk after visiting an onsen.

*I highly recommend to try some Karintō first before buying a large pack, as I know that some people do not like it.

12

Ichinoyu Onsen

Primavera quente

Onsen

One of the seven public onsens in Kinosaki that is worth visiting resembles a kabuki theater from the outside. It is relatively spacious and features both an indoor bath and an open-air one within a cave-like structure.

This onsen is completely tattoo-friendly.

Want to see how busy this onsen is right now? Click HERE

Up next, you'll have restaurant options to choose from (swipe right to see the other choices).

13

Orizuru Sushi Restaurant

restaurante

Delicious sushi

An absolutely delicious sushi restaurant located in Kinosaki Onsen Town. One of the most famous restaurants in the area that has been opened over 60 year ago. The establishment has gained huge recognition for its delicious, mouth-watering Sushi and Sashimi dishes.

My absolute favorite item on the menu is the gorgeous Tajima Beef Nigiri, which was sooo tender and delicious. It might sound weird, but it is one of the best meat dishes I've ever had. I could probably eat 10 pieces of it; that's how good they are. Also, pay attention to the chopstick rests in this restaurant which are shaped like a stork bird (a local celebrity).. You can purchase a pair of these chopstick rests right in the restaurant for 1800 JPY, and I couldn't resist getting a pair myself 🙋‍♀️😅

14

Shisho Shrine / 四所神社

Passeio turístico

Shrine

A small and charming shrine located next to Goshonoyu Onsen. Shisho Shrine, since ancient times, has served as the guardian of both Kinosaki Onsen and its famed hot springs. It's worth a quick stop, especially in the evening when the lanterns offer a warm glow.

This marks the end of day 1 in this itinerary.

In the upcoming section, you'll discover three public onsens in Kinosaki that, in my opinion, are not as appealing as the other four mentioned during day 1 and day 2 of this itinerary (the reasons for this will become apparent as you read their descriptions).

I decided to include these three onsens nonetheless because excluding them would have left the itinerary feeling incomplete, and you might want toto explore all seven public onsens in Kinosaki town anyway.

15

Mandarayu Bath

Primavera quente

Onsen

Though its temple-like appearance and historical significance (the first onsen in Kinosaki) give it some undeniable charm, this place is unfortunately one of my least favorites. It's very small and gets crowded quickly, making it a less-than-ideal choice unless you're determined to visit all seven Kinosaki onsens.

This onsen is completely tattoo-friendly.

Want to see how busy this onsen is right now? Click HERE