Hiking the historic post towns of the Nakasendo Trail

If you visit in autumn, start early in your day and experience the breathtaking red maple leaves of Choenji Temple! A truly hidden gem among locals, you likely will not run into other tourists here. It gets crowded early as the light in the morning is truly the best.

Other seasons are not any less beautiful. In spring the air is filled with the fragrance of the chestnut tree and Chinese fringe tree white blossoms, while in summer you can gaze at the golden flowers of the Japanese rain tree.

Make your way here by direct train from Matsumoto and get off at Chino Station. Here, you can get a local bus to the temple and a 15min walk, but if you want to beat the masses I highly recommend to take a taxi to Choenji.

Kiso is a forested, mountainous valley nestled in southern Nagano stretching as far as the borders of Gifu, known for its scenic peaks, hot springs, hiking trails and picturesque towns on the historic Nakasendo trail.

The most famous is the historic post town of Narai. It is very picturesque and the most preserved. Furthermore, it is the most easy to access.

From Matsumoto Station, take the Shioiri Line towards Nakatsugawa and get off at Narai Station. The journey takes about 45mins and costs 590Yen.

Hike from Yabuhara to Narai

If you have more time at your hands, I highly recommend to hike from Yabuhara to Narai-juku to fully experience the historic Nakasendo trail. This section of the pass is called "the Torii Pass".

The Torii pass hike is 8.5km long and takes roughly 2.5 hours to complete. It is quieter than the Magome–Tsumago stretch but nonetheless beautiful. The trail heads uphill from Yabuhara, past shrines and Mount Ontake views before gradually descending into Narai.

Arriving in Narai, I highly recommend to take your time to explore the area. The post towns are all rather small, so it is very easy to see it all in 1-2hours. I spend some time in a café here before exploring the shrines nearby. As this is a famous post town, make sure to also stop at the post office!

One stop you should not miss is the Kiso Bridge! This bridge is one of the few traditional Japanese arched bridges spanning the Narai River. The beautiful bridge is made entirely of hinoki cypress and is one of the largest of its kind not using bridge piers in Japan! The bridge is also lit up at night from early April to late November.

If you like to slow travel, I highly recommend to spend a night at a traditional inn in Narai-juku. There are 11 accommodations in Narai-juku, but most of them are not listed on online hotel booking platforms. If you want to book them, you will likely have to call directly.

In all of the towns there are a few (but not many) accommodations. You can also stay in other towns in the region, such as Nakatsugawa, Nagiso or even in Matsumoto. However, I personally would highly recommend to stay one night in one of the post towns to fully experience the area.

One accommodation that you can easily book online and that I would highly recommend is BYAKU Narai. Renovated from a 200-year old traditional building, you will feel like stepping back in time with the most incredible aneminites. The inn is not only absolutely beautiful, but also hosts amazing local cuisine. If you feel like delving deeper into into the local culture, this stay will not disappoint you.

Why stay overnight? Narai-juku has a very different feeling once the sun sets, the light go on and most, if not all, visitors have left for the day. Please be aware that shops seem to close at 5pm at the latest. Staying overnight is also great if you are into night photography! On a clear day, you can get breathtaking views of the night sky without the light pollution of the cities.

Things to do in the evening:

1. Enjoy the lights at night of Narai-juku

2. Admire the lit-up Kiso Ohashi Bridge

3. Marvel at the starry night sky

4. Experience the sunrise in Narai-juku

5. Explore Narai-juku in the early morning