Restaurante Lavrador is a small, likely family-run spot where you can expect honest Madeiran cooking with a focus on fresh seafood and local classics like espada (black scabbard fish) and espetada; portions tend to be generous and prices reasonable. It’s popular with locals, so book ahead for weekend dinner, get there by car or bus since parking can be tight, and expect a cozy dining room with possible outdoor seating. Staff usually speak some English, they typically take cards but having a bit of cash helps, and don’t miss asking for the house specialties and bolo do caco with garlic butter.