Buenos Aires once had a lot of small markets that have unfortunately not withstood the test of time. El Mercado de San Telmo is the exception (not the rule) that is thriving but to thrive it has had to change into a haven for expensive restaurants. A few original stalls remain, but they are in the minority and their days are surely numbered.

However, Caballito’s El Mercado de Progreso has broken the rules in that it is thriving completely as is and as it always has been. This market has been operating as a market since 1889.

Go for a stroll here to see locals shopping at the butcher shops, vegetable stalls, and more.