What you'll do
This 4-day itinerary takes you on one of the most breathtaking routes on Vancouver Island — from the harbor city of Nanaimo through misty forests, hidden waterfalls, and surf lined beaches to the wild Pacific edge of Tofino and Ucluelet.
I created this itinerary with care and my local knowledge. Visiting the park, exploring the towns, eating amazing food, walking the trails, surfing the waves, or having a fire on the beach. These are all things to do, which is great. But, the one thing I hope for you, is to make memories.
Start making memories by wandering through small island towns bursting with local flavor. Shop and check out the goats in Coombs, hike to Qualicum Falls, walk the grove, and cool off at Sproat Lake before winding your way through l forests and moss-draped canyons toward the open coast.
Each day blends scenic drives with easy hikes, long beaches to comb, hidden swimming spots, and local gems from tacos to coastal walks that feel worlds away. You’ll explore trails like Giant Cedars, Lighthouse Loop, and Rainforest Trail, and rest your head under the stars or in cozy coastal stays near the ocean.
Along the way, you’ll find places to linger. Like Wally Creek’s turquoise pools or Long Beach’s golden sand, and moments to simply breathe it all in.
Whether you’re a road tripper, camper, girls trip, or a couple chasing west coast sunsets, this journey is your gateway to Vancouver Island’s wild side.
I truly hope you enjoy
Day 1
Total Distance: 210 km
Drive Time: ~4.5 hours (without stops — plan for 7–8 hours with exploring)
Route: Highway 19 → Highway 4 (Pacific Rim Highway)
Start your journey early from BC Ferries, Departure Bay, Nanaimo. Make sure you’ve got a great playlist and coffee.
Departure Bay Beach
beach
Scenic beach for relaxation
Departure Bay Beach, located in Nanaimo right by BC Ferries, is a charming spot that locals and visitors alike enjoy. With its stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the sparkling waters of the bay, it's a perfect place for a leisurely day out.
People often flock here to soak up the sun, take a dip in the ocean, or simply relax on the sandy shore. The beach is also a popular spot for families, as there’s plenty of space for kids to play and explore. Plus, the nearby amenities make it easy to grab a snack or a drink while enjoying the scenery.
Whether it's a quiet morning stroll or an afternoon of fun, Departure Bay Beach has something for everyone.
No Vancouver Island road trip is complete without stopping at the Coombs Market — yes, the one with goats on the roof! Explore the artisan market, get a pack of donuts, grab a cone from Billy G’s Ice Cream, or sit down for an incredible meal at Cuckoo Trattoria & Pizzeria. Don’t miss the plant shop and local produce stands behind the main market. Just down the road is Butterfly World.
Directions:
BC Hwy 19 North (signs for Campbell River), drive north for 33 km
Right on Exit 51 towards Coombs
Use the left lane to take BC Hwy 4A West ramp to Coombs
Turn right onto Alberni Hwy BC 4A West for 7.2 km
The Market will be on the left. It’s the one with the grass and goats on it
Old Country Market - Goats on the Roof
shop
Goats on the roof and so much more
The Coombs Old Country Market isn’t just a stop along the highway — it’s one of Vancouver Island’s most beloved destinations. Known around the world for its goats grazing on the grass roof, this quirky landmark blends European charm, local flavor, and a touch of whimsy that keeps travelers and locals coming back again and again.
The heart of the market is its grocery and produce section, where you’ll find a colorful mix of locally grown vegetables, artisan breads, cheeses, and international imports. Many visitors stock up here before heading west toward Tofino or Ucluelet, as it’s the perfect place to grab road trip snacks, picnic supplies, or something unique for the campsite.
Food lovers are spoiled for choice. The donut shop is legendary, offering warm, fresh-made donuts dusted with sugar — the kind people line up for. Just steps away, the ice cream counter boasts dozens of flavors, from rich classics to adventurous scoops, served in generous Island-sized portions. If you’re after a sit-down meal, you’ll find an authentic Italian restaurant with wood-fired pizzas, handmade pasta, and rustic favorites, as well as a Mexican spot bursting with bold flavors and colorful plates.
But Coombs is about more than just eating. The grounds are filled with eclectic shops, each offering something different. Browse the plant shop, brimming with greenery and unique finds for your home garden. Step into the pottery and homewares store, where shelves are lined with colorful ceramics, artisan cookware, and handcrafted décor. Wander through the market’s boutiques to discover locally made gifts, art, and souvenirs that reflect the creativity and culture of the Island.
For families, the market is an adventure in itself. Kids love spotting the goats on the roof, exploring the aisles, and grabbing a sweet treat, while adults appreciate the laid-back, welcoming atmosphere. The market is dog-friendly, so even four-legged friends can tag along, making it a perfect stop for travelers on the road.
There’s also ample parking behind the market, so no matter how busy it gets in the summer, you’ll usually find a spot with ease.
What makes Coombs truly special, though, is its mix of community and curiosity. It’s a place where you can sip espresso at the Italian café, stock up on organic produce, buy a hand-painted mug, and then watch goats grazing overhead — all in one afternoon. Whether you’re passing through on your way to the West Coast or spending a lazy day exploring the area, Coombs Old Country Market offers an experience that’s as unforgettable as it is delicious.
It’s not just a market. It’s a slice of Vancouver Island — quirky, authentic, and full of flavor.
Billy G's Doughnut Shop
bakery
Charming doughnut shop on Vancouver Island
Billy G's Doughnut Shop has some pretty delicious donuts! Locals and visitors alike flock for their sweet fix. Known for its mouthwatering doughnuts, the shop offers a variety of flavors that keep people coming back for more.
The atmosphere is friendly and laid-back, making it a perfect place to grab a treat and chat with friends or enjoy a quiet moment. With its charming vibe and delicious offerings, Billy G's has become a beloved gem in the community.
Cuckoo Trattoria and Pizzeria
restaurant
Cozy Italian restaurant with fresh cuisine
Cuckoo Trattoria and Pizzeria is a cozy spot on Vancouver Island, known for its warm atmosphere and delicious Italian cuisine. With a menu that features everything from classic pizzas to hearty pasta dishes, it’s a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
The restaurant prides itself on using fresh, high-quality ingredients, which really shine through in their flavorful offerings. The staff is friendly and welcoming, making everyone feel right at home. Whether you're stopping by for a casual meal with friends or a family dinner, Cuckoo has a laid-back vibe that keeps people coming back for more.
Butterfly World, Coombs
tours
Butterfly exhibit in Coombs
Butterfly World in Coombs, Vancouver Island, is a charming spot where visitors can immerse themselves in the beauty of nature. This unique attraction features a vibrant indoor butterfly exhibit, showcasing hundreds of colorful butterflies fluttering around in a lush, tropical environment. Guests can stroll through the space, marveling at the delicate creatures as they land on flowers and sometimes even on people!
In addition to the butterflies, there are educational displays that teach visitors about the life cycle of these insects and their importance in the ecosystem. The atmosphere is relaxed and inviting, making it a perfect outing for families, couples, or anyone looking to enjoy a little slice of nature. Plus, the surrounding area offers lovely gardens and shops, adding to the overall experience.
Stretch your legs with a walk through Qualicum Falls Provincial Park — a short 2 km loop that winds through lush forest to a powerful double waterfall. If you need to camp, check out the campground.
Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour
Tip: Great picnic spot and washroom stop.
Directions:
From Old Country Market,t head North on BC Hwy 4A West
Turn left at the lights onto Alberni Hwy BC 4 West (signs for Port Alberni)
Drive for 7km
Turn right onto Little Qualicum Falls Rd for 1.3 km to the parking lot
Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park
Hike
Scenic waterfalls and hiking trails
Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park is known for its stunning waterfalls, old-growth forests, and scenic trails. The park straddles the Little Qualicum River, with impressive waterfalls cascading down a rocky gorge, and it incorporates the entire southern shore of Cameron Lake. It's a popular destination for hiking, swimming, and camping.
The park's namesake features a series of beautiful waterfalls, offering picturesque views.
Old-growth and second-growth forests surround the falls, providing a beautiful and natural setting. This park includes the entire southern shore of Cameron Lake, offering opportunities for swimming, fishing, and more.
A network of trails allows visitors to explore the park's diverse landscape, including viewpoints of the river and the falls.
The park offers campgrounds for those wishing to stay overnight and experience the beauty of the area.
The park is located west of Parksville and is accessible by car from Highway 4. It's adjacent to MacMillan Provincial Park and the Cathedral Grove. Cameron Lake is bordered by steep mountains, including Mount Wesley to the north and Mount Arrowsmith to the south
Directions: Turn right onto BC Hwy 4 West for 10 km
Cathedral Grove will be on the right. See Things to do for more info
Cathedral Grove
park
Where Ancient Giants Whisper
This is a must-see when traveling in the area if you want to walk the giants. The park is located between Qualicum and Port Alberni, making it a perfect stop on the way to Tofino or Ucluelet.
Located within MacMillan Provincial Park near Port Alberni, this iconic Vancouver Island forest is a sacred place — a living cathedral of Douglas fir and red cedar.
Cathedral Grove sits along Highway 4, about halfway between Parksville and Port Alberni. It’s one of the most accessible examples of old-growth forest in British Columbia — and one of the most humbling.
Some of the Douglas firs here are over 800 years old and stretch more than 75 meters (250 feet) high. The sheer size, combined with the scent of damp earth and the quiet rustle of ferns, creates a feeling that’s both grounding and spiritual.
This forest is part of the traditional territory of the Hupacasath and K’ómoks First Nations, who have long honored it as a place of respect and balance.
Wander the Walking Trails - Two main loops — one on each side of the highway — lead through groves of Douglas fir, western red cedar, and hemlock. The paths are flat, well-marked, and family-friendly, allowing visitors of all ages to experience the majesty of these ancient trees.
Find “The Big Tree” - The most famous tree in the park is a Douglas fir estimated at over 800 years old, with a massive 9-meter (30-foot) circumference. Standing beside it is an unforgettable experience — it’s a reminder of just how small we are in the grand story of nature.
Photography & Reflection - Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times for photos — when the light beams softly through the canopy, illuminating the forest floor in gold and green. But honestly, it’s the feeling of this place that stays with you — a deep calm that words can’t quite capture.
Parking: In the past four years, this area has become very busy due to social media. The only problem is that the parking is very limited on both sides of the highway. The highway runs right through the park. The island traffic is made up of many large trucks and general traffic. Please park in the designated areas, not on the side of the road, and walk down. There was an incident with a family that almost got hit by a logging truck. Parks Canada has now limited the parking to the main lots. Head out in the mornings or the evening, or if it’s too busy, try again on the way back from Port Alberni. The light for photography is perfect at these times.
Tips for Visiting
Wear proper shoes: Even though it’s an easy walk, the trails can be muddy after rain.
Go quietly: The stillness is part of what makes Cathedral Grove so powerful.
No facilities: Bring water and snacks; there are no washrooms in the park.
Watch for traffic: The highway cuts through the park, so use crosswalks and caution.
Respect the land: Stay on designated trails to protect delicate roots and moss.
Cathedral Grove is more than a stop along the highway — it’s a reminder of resilience, strength, and the quiet beauty of things that have stood the test of time.
There’s something deeply humbling about standing beneath trees that were already ancient before cities existed, before modern roads, before us.
Whenever I visit, I find myself walking slower, breathing deeper, and remembering what it means to just be — small, grateful, and alive in the middle of something timeless.
Directions: Head west on BC Hwy 4 West for 13 km
Turn right at Coombs Country Candy (and yes, grab a treat!) before walking the 1.5 km trail to this hidden gem — a manmade tunnel waterfall framed by mossy cliffs. Walk across the Hwy carefully and use marked trails
Time: 45 minutes round-trip
Note: The trail is easy but can be muddy after rain.
Hole in the Wall
Sightseeing
Hidden gem for nature lovers
The trail itself winds through vibrant greenery and leads to a unique rock formation that resembles a "hole in the wall," providing a perfect backdrop for photos. Hikers can enjoy the sounds of nature while taking in the fresh air, making it a great spot for both casual walkers and more serious trekkers. With its scenic views and tranquil atmosphere, it's no wonder this trailhead attracts those looking to escape into the wilderness.
Parking and getting to the trail:
I suggest parking in the Coombs Country Candy lot. The trail is on the other side of the highway, which is very busy. Please be careful crossing. The trail should be marked, but we recommend using a trail app to help you not get lost. People get lost there all the time.
This is your last major stop for supplies before Tofino or Ucluelet.
Top up gas, food, and restock snacks.
Logging trucks have the right of way
Use headlights at all times
Pull over early and fully
Rexby offline mode required
Share your route with someone
Carry emergency communication
Roads may wash out
Heavy rain = fallen trees
Snow possible at elevation
Just outside Port Alberni — perfect for a refreshing swim or dog walk on warm days. Camping available.
Facilities: Washrooms, picnic areas, and lake access.
Bonus: See the ancient K’ak’awin petroglyphs carved into the rock near the lake’s edge.
Directions:
From the Hole in the Wall, continue straight on BC Hwy 4 West
Turn right onto Pacific Rim Hwy / River Rd BC Hwy 4 West (signs for Tofino Ucluelet) for 11 km
Turn left on Lakeshore Drive
Turn left into Sproat Lake Provincial Park
Sproat Lake
park
Clear Waters, Warm Summers, and Hidden Stories
We love to stop here in the summer to cool down when we head back from the West Coast. Tucked just west of Port Alberni, Taylor Arm & Sproat Lake Provincial Park is one of those Vancouver Island gems that feels like a local secret — the kind of place where summer days stretch long, the water sparkles like glass, and time slows down just enough to breathe.
Sproat Lake is known for its crystal-clear water, perfect for swimming, paddleboarding, and kayaking. In fact, it’s often one of the warmest lakes on Vancouver Island — a welcome treat after exploring the coastal trails or a road trip from Tofino.
You’ll find several sandy and pebbly beach areas for swimming, launching small boats, or just relaxing back in the sun. The lake stretches more than 25 km long, with hidden coves and bays that feel untouched.
Local tip:
Head out early with your kayak or SUP for sunrise — when the water is still and the mist hovers over the forest. It’s pure magic.
One of the most remarkable parts of Sproat Lake is tucked just a short walk from the main day-use area — the K’ak’awin Petroglyphs, carved by the Hupacasath First Nation.
These ancient rock carvings are over 1,000 years old and depict mystical sea creatures, believed to be spiritual protectors or representations of powerful beings connected to the ocean.
It’s a sacred place — one that invites reflection and respect. Stand quietly for a moment, and you’ll feel the deep history in the rock and water around you.
Camping + Day Use
Sproat Lake Provincial Park offers two main campgrounds — Upper Sproat and Lower Sproat — with shaded forested sites just steps from the water.
Lower Sproat Campground sits right on the lake with easy access to swimming, boat launches, and picnic areas.
Upper Sproat Campground is tucked in a bit further but offers more privacy and forest ambiance.
Facilities: Picnic tables, fire pits, pit toilets, and potable water (seasonal).
Day Use: Plenty of parking, a large grassy area, and spots to spread out with a blanket or barbecue.
Be sure to reserve early in summer — it’s a local favorite for weekend getaways.
Swimming: Warm, clear water — ideal for all ages.
Paddleboarding & Kayaking: Calm mornings and sheltered coves.
Boating: There’s a paved boat launch and space for motorized boats, but please be mindful of swimmers and smaller crafts.
Fishing: Known for rainbow and cutthroat trout.
Beach Picnics: Bring a packed lunch from Port Alberni’s SteamPunk Café or Burde Beans Coffee and enjoy it lakeside.
Hiking: Take the short Petroglyph Trail for history and views or explore nearby Taylor Arm Provincial Park for forested trails and quieter swimming spots.
Location: 13 km west of Port Alberni on Highway 4 (toward Tofino).
Driving Time: ~2.5 hrs from Nanaimo, ~4 hrs from Victoria, ~2 hrs from Tofino.
Parking: Ample day-use parking near both campgrounds and picnic areas.
Pets: Dogs are welcome on leash but not in designated swimming areas.
Accessibility: Paved paths and gradual slopes make it accessible for most visitors.
This rest area along Highway 4 has electric charging stations, bathrooms, and access to the cool, emerald waters of the Taylor River — a safe swimming spot for a quick dip.
Tip: The water here is stunningly clear but very cold!
Directions to rest area:
Turn left onto BC Hwy 4 West for 29km
Turn right onto Taylor River Rest Area 500m
Directions to the best swimming spot:
Instead of turning into the rest area, take the next right turnoff after the bridge. Looks like an inactive road. Either park there, or if your vehicle can squeeze between the rocks, go for it.
There is a trail at the end down to the river.
Taylor River Restarea
area
Social Media Hot Spot
The Taylor River is a popular roadside rest stop on Highway 4 thanks to social media. There was a time when only we locals knew about the swimming spot. Please respect the area.
Instead of pulling into the rest area, take the next right pull-off just after the bridge. Head to the end and take the path to the river with a small beach. If you can, please take five minutes and collect some of the garbage people have left behind. We all need to do our part to be able to access these beautiful areas.
It's a picturesque spot for a quick dip, picnicking, or simply taking photos, and includes amenities like parking, though some access points require navigating a short, mildly steep trail. Visitors often stop to swim, use rope swings, or have picnics
The river is also a critical salmon and trout spawning ground, and visitors are encouraged to be mindful of wildlife and the environment.
The river is famous for its vibrant, clear, turquoise, or blue-green water, though it is glacier-fed and very cold year-round.
The rest area has parking (including for RVs) and pit toilets, and provides free Wi-Fi, E- Charging stations, though some visitors find the washrooms to be poorly maintained.
The area is home to various species, including black bears, and is a critical habitat for salmon and trout spawning, so visitors should be aware of their surroundings.
Respect the environment: Remember, this is a sensitive habitat for fish, so be mindful of where you step and clean up after yourself.
Taylor River Swim Spot
Waterfall
Hidden gem for swimming
Drive past the actual rest area, over the bridge, and the next right pull-off has a small parking area. If your vehicle has some height, drive over the rocks. Look for the dead end, park, and take the small trail. This will lead you to a beautiful beach, a tree swing, and glacier-cold blue water.
The Taylor River Swim Spot is a hidden gem located on the way to the Pacific Rim National Park (Tofino). Nestled in a picturesque setting, it features clear, refreshing waters that are perfect for a summer dip. Surrounded by lush greenery and towering trees, the spot offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Locals and visitors alike enjoy lounging by the riverbank, soaking up the sun, or taking a leisurely swim to cool off. The area is also great for picnics, with plenty of space to spread out and relax. Whether it's a solo adventure or a fun day out with friends, Taylor River provides a laid-back vibe that makes it an ideal spot for anyone looking to unwind in nature.
A must-stop viewpoint. The turquoise river flows through polished canyon rocks — a favorite for photos, quick swims, or rock hopping. Be cautious around the water — currents can be strong after rainfall.
Directions:
Continue on BC Hwy 4 West for 3-4 km
Pull out by the river by the Totem Pole and trail to the river.
Wally Creek
Sightseeing
Tranquil nature spot on Vancouver Island
Wally Creek is a great spot to stop on the way to Tofino. During winter and the spring run off the river flows high and gives an impressive show with it's power. The summer months you are able to walk along the rocks, find small pools to cool off in. Please use caution as these rocks are slippery and the water is cold.
2 km down the road, you can experience the rainforest and canyon from above! This exhilarating zipline adventure crosses the Kennedy River canyon.
A short 0.3 km boardwalk trail through a grove of ancient red cedars.
Time: 20–30 minutes
Note: The trailhead is easy to miss — watch for the small roadside sign after Kennedy Lake.
West Coast WILD Zipline
activity
Thrilling zipline
West Coast WILD Zipline is an exciting adventure spot located on Vancouver Island, BC. Nestled in a stunning natural setting, it offers thrill-seekers the chance to soar through the treetops and take in breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.
The ziplines are designed for all skill levels, making it a perfect outing for families, friends, or anyone looking to get their adrenaline pumping. Guests can expect a friendly and knowledgeable staff who ensure safety while also sharing fun facts about the local wildlife and environment. With its combination of adventure and natural beauty, West Coast WILD Zipline provides a memorable experience that keeps visitors coming back for more.
Giant Cedar Trail
park
A quick trail just off Hwy 4
The "Giant Cedar Trail" is a short, easy, out-and-back hike just off Hwy 4, known for its large western red cedar trees, including the massive Canoe Creek Cedar, which has a diameter of over 4 meters. The nearly flat path is about 0.9 miles round trip and takes about 30-60 minutes to complete, though parts of the trail can be overgrown due to lack of use, and the recreation site itself is currently closed.
A final chance to stretch before the last stretch of winding coastal road. The view of the lake is amazing!
Facilities: Pit toilets, river access, picnic tables.
Directions:
Stay on BC Hwy 4 West for 3km
Turn right into the rest area.
Continue on BC Hwy 4 for 8.5 km until the highway ends. There is tourist information and washrooms.
Kennedy Lake Lookout
area
Rest area with a view
This free day use area offers toilets and nice scenery. It is dog friendly. No camping or overnight parking allowed.
Tofino → Right Turn (33 km) or Ucluelet → Left Turn (8 km) – Check into your accommodation.
I suggest Cedar & Salt Restaurant in Ucluelet for the first of many delicious meals you'll have in the Pacific Rim. There is also a Co-OP grocery store.
For Tofino, stop off at Big Daddy Fish Fry to start your seafood experience.
Recommended Accommodation: Make sure to have your accommodation booked ahead of time.
Cedar & Salt Restaurant
restaurant
Cozy restaurant with local flavors
Cedar & Salt is a cozy restaurant located in Ucluelet that captures the essence of local flavors and ingredients. With a warm and inviting atmosphere, it’s the perfect spot for both casual diners and those looking to celebrate special occasions.
The menu features a delightful mix of dishes inspired by the surrounding natural beauty, showcasing fresh seafood and seasonal produce. Guests often rave about the friendly staff who create a welcoming vibe, making everyone feel right at home. Whether you're stopping by for brunch or dinner, Cedar & Salt offers a unique dining experience that reflects the charm of the island.
Big Daddy's Fish Fry
restaurant
Fresh seafood with a casual vibe
Big Daddy's Fish Fry is a popular spot in Tofino that is known for its laid-back vibe and delicious seafood. The place has a reputation for serving up some of the freshest fish and chips around, with a menu that features a variety of options to satisfy any craving.
Locals and visitors alike love the casual atmosphere, where they can kick back and enjoy their meals either indoors or outside. The staff is friendly and welcoming, making it a great place to grab a bite after a day of exploring the island. Whether you're in the mood for classic fried fish or something a bit different, Big Daddy's has got you covered.