Marica hails from Bologna, Italy's culinary heart, and the food at her new venture in Aulla is tremendous, and the prices are moderate.

We also like the wines. You can guzzle the house wine at 2 euros a glass, but for four euros we hit the jackpot--the wine was from a local monastery, Monastero dei Fratti Bianchi. It's a red called Cenobio, and it was a fantastic wine, especially considering the price.

If you know the space formerly occupied by Carbo, you'll know that the kitchen is upstairs and attached to the dining and reception area by one of those narrow iron spiral staircases. That means, on a day like this one, the waiter is forced to run up the spiral and come down with trays of food. Besides getting the drinks and taking in the money, I mean. It's not easy for 2 people to run a restaurant like this!

But the food. Oh, the food! It's like being transported back to the old days, where the food was ready when it was ready and you got to rest and gossip a bit before attacking the next plate.

There are also vegetarian options.

On weekends they serve the iconic lasagna Bolognese and, in the warmer months at least, a panzanella made from the three types of bread they serve to customers and sell to locals.

The coppa, cut of pork taken from the upper part of the pig's neck and shoulder, is warm and tender, and please order the friggione, a tomato and onion stew from Bologna that can be a contorno or a sauce over polenta or pasta.

Have fun and eat heartily at Home Made by Marica.