Travel Tips

The barefoot island — everything you need to know before bringing the family to Formentera

Monica Pascual

Monica Pascual

Formentera, Spain

🗓️ Best Time to Visit

Formentera's season runs from May through October. May & early June are ideal for families: warm enough to swim (22–26°C), the island is green, and beaches are uncrowded. Late June through August is peak season — water is perfect (26–28°C) but Ses Illetes gets packed, restaurant bookings are essential, and scooter rental prices double. September & early October are the secret season: water is at its warmest, crowds thin out, and prices drop 30–40%. November through April the island essentially shuts down — most hotels, restaurants, and ferry services close.


🚗 Getting Around

Formentera has no airport. The only way in is by ferry from Ibiza (30 minutes fast ferry, 1 hour standard). Ferries run every 30 minutes in high season from Ibiza Town to La Savina. Once on the island, rent a scooter or e-bike — the island is only 20 km long. Scooters cost €25–40/day in high season. For families with young kids, a car with a child seat is safest — book well ahead in July/August. The island has bus lines (L1 and L2) connecting La Savina, Es Pujols, Sant Ferran, and the beaches. Cycling is fantastic — Formentera is flat (except the climb to La Mola) and has dedicated green cycling routes (Circuitos Verdes).


🍽️ What to Eat & Drink

Must-try dishes: Bullit de peix (traditional fish stew served in two courses — broth with rice, then the fish), arroz a banda (seafood rice in fish stock), frita de polp (fried octopus), ensalada payesa (country salad with dried fish, tomatoes, peppers), coca bread with sobrassada. Local drinks: Hierbas ibicencas (anise-based herbal liqueur), vi pagès (local country wine), pomada (gin with lemonade). For kids: fresh fish, patatas bravas, pan con tomate. Many beach restaurants have simple kids' menus.


🤫 Local Secrets

  • Go to Ses Illetes at 5 PM, not 10 AM — day-trippers from Ibiza have left and the light is golden.

  • Calo Des Mort is tiny — arrive before 10 AM or after 4 PM.

  • At Cap de Barbaria, most people drive to the lighthouse and leave. Walk east along the cliff edge and find a hole in the ground that leads to a cave opening to the sea.

  • Estany des Peix is the local families' secret: no waves, warm shallow water, almost no tourists. Perfect for toddlers.

  • Sunsets from Cala Saona are the island's best — better than Cap de Barbaria if you want comfort.

  • The Wednesday and Sunday Pilar de la Mola Hippie Market is the real deal — handmade jewelry, organic soaps, live music.

  • Punta de Sa Pedrera near La Mola is an otherworldly rock formation that looks like a moonscape. Almost no tourists.


🎒 Packing Essentials

  • Reef shoes / water sandals — rocky entries at Cala en Baster, Calo Des Mort. Essential for kids.

  • High SPF reef-safe sunscreen — sun reflects off white sand and clear water.

  • Beach umbrella or pop-up tent — many beaches have no shade.

  • Snorkeling gear — crystal clear water, easy shallow snorkeling at Cala Saona and Ses Illetes.

  • Light layers for evening — sea breezes cool down after sunset.

  • Small backpack cooler — for remote coves with no chiringuito.

  • Child-sized helmets — rental shops often only have adult sizes.


📅 Booking Ahead

  • Ferries: 1–2 weeks ahead in July/August. Companies: Baleària, Trasmapi, Aquabus.

  • Scooter/car rental: At least 1 week ahead in peak season. Confirm child seats.

  • Restaurants: Es Molí de Sal, Juan y Andrea, Beso Beach Formentera need 2–3 days ahead minimum in summer.

  • Hotels: Book 2–3 months ahead for summer. Limited accommodation on the island.

  • S'Espalmador boat trips: Book the day before at La Savina port.

  • Pilar de la Mola Hippie Market: No booking, but only open Wednesdays and Sundays (May–October).


💰 Money & Budget

Currency: Euro (€). Card-friendly everywhere, but bring cash for beach parking (Ses Illetes €4–6 per vehicle), small chiringuitos, and market stalls. Average daily costs for a family of 3: Accommodation €150–300/night (hotel) or €100–200 (apartment). Scooter rental €25–40/day. Lunch at a beach restaurant €50–80. Dinner €60–100. Formentera is more expensive than mainland Spain, roughly on par with Ibiza. Tipping: Not mandatory, but rounding up or 5–10% is appreciated.


🙏 Respect & Safety

  • Parc Natural de ses Salines is protected — stay on marked paths, don't disturb the flamingos.

  • Posidonia seagrass (dark patches in the water) is protected and makes the water so clear. Never anchor on it, don't pull it from the shore.

  • Nude beaches are common at parts of Ses Illetes, Llevant, and Migjorn. Completely normal.

  • Drive carefully — narrow roads, cyclists everywhere, blind curves. Go slow on the climb to La Mola.

  • Platja de Llevant can have strong currents on windy days. Cala Saona and Es Pujols are calmest for young kids.

  • Jellyfish can appear in August/September. Check beach flags.

  • Leave no trace — pack out everything you bring to the beach.

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