Travel Tips
The barefoot island — everything you need to know before bringing the family to Formentera
Monica Pascual
Formentera, Spain
🗓️ Best Time to Visit
Formentera's season runs from May through October. May & early June are ideal for families: warm enough to swim (22–26°C), the island is green, and beaches are uncrowded. Late June through August is peak season — water is perfect (26–28°C) but Ses Illetes gets packed, restaurant bookings are essential, and scooter rental prices double. September & early October are the secret season: water is at its warmest, crowds thin out, and prices drop 30–40%. November through April the island essentially shuts down — most hotels, restaurants, and ferry services close.
🚗 Getting Around
Formentera has no airport. The only way in is by ferry from Ibiza (30 minutes fast ferry, 1 hour standard). Ferries run every 30 minutes in high season from Ibiza Town to La Savina. Once on the island, rent a scooter or e-bike — the island is only 20 km long. Scooters cost €25–40/day in high season. For families with young kids, a car with a child seat is safest — book well ahead in July/August. The island has bus lines (L1 and L2) connecting La Savina, Es Pujols, Sant Ferran, and the beaches. Cycling is fantastic — Formentera is flat (except the climb to La Mola) and has dedicated green cycling routes (Circuitos Verdes).
🍽️ What to Eat & Drink
Must-try dishes: Bullit de peix (traditional fish stew served in two courses — broth with rice, then the fish), arroz a banda (seafood rice in fish stock), frita de polp (fried octopus), ensalada payesa (country salad with dried fish, tomatoes, peppers), coca bread with sobrassada. Local drinks: Hierbas ibicencas (anise-based herbal liqueur), vi pagès (local country wine), pomada (gin with lemonade). For kids: fresh fish, patatas bravas, pan con tomate. Many beach restaurants have simple kids' menus.
🤫 Local Secrets
Go to Ses Illetes at 5 PM, not 10 AM — day-trippers from Ibiza have left and the light is golden.
Calo Des Mort is tiny — arrive before 10 AM or after 4 PM.
At Cap de Barbaria, most people drive to the lighthouse and leave. Walk east along the cliff edge and find a hole in the ground that leads to a cave opening to the sea.
Estany des Peix is the local families' secret: no waves, warm shallow water, almost no tourists. Perfect for toddlers.
Sunsets from Cala Saona are the island's best — better than Cap de Barbaria if you want comfort.
The Wednesday and Sunday Pilar de la Mola Hippie Market is the real deal — handmade jewelry, organic soaps, live music.
Punta de Sa Pedrera near La Mola is an otherworldly rock formation that looks like a moonscape. Almost no tourists.
🎒 Packing Essentials
Reef shoes / water sandals — rocky entries at Cala en Baster, Calo Des Mort. Essential for kids.
High SPF reef-safe sunscreen — sun reflects off white sand and clear water.
Beach umbrella or pop-up tent — many beaches have no shade.
Snorkeling gear — crystal clear water, easy shallow snorkeling at Cala Saona and Ses Illetes.
Light layers for evening — sea breezes cool down after sunset.
Small backpack cooler — for remote coves with no chiringuito.
Child-sized helmets — rental shops often only have adult sizes.
📅 Booking Ahead
Ferries: 1–2 weeks ahead in July/August. Companies: Baleària, Trasmapi, Aquabus.
Scooter/car rental: At least 1 week ahead in peak season. Confirm child seats.
Restaurants: Es Molí de Sal, Juan y Andrea, Beso Beach Formentera need 2–3 days ahead minimum in summer.
Hotels: Book 2–3 months ahead for summer. Limited accommodation on the island.
S'Espalmador boat trips: Book the day before at La Savina port.
Pilar de la Mola Hippie Market: No booking, but only open Wednesdays and Sundays (May–October).
💰 Money & Budget
Currency: Euro (€). Card-friendly everywhere, but bring cash for beach parking (Ses Illetes €4–6 per vehicle), small chiringuitos, and market stalls. Average daily costs for a family of 3: Accommodation €150–300/night (hotel) or €100–200 (apartment). Scooter rental €25–40/day. Lunch at a beach restaurant €50–80. Dinner €60–100. Formentera is more expensive than mainland Spain, roughly on par with Ibiza. Tipping: Not mandatory, but rounding up or 5–10% is appreciated.
🙏 Respect & Safety
Parc Natural de ses Salines is protected — stay on marked paths, don't disturb the flamingos.
Posidonia seagrass (dark patches in the water) is protected and makes the water so clear. Never anchor on it, don't pull it from the shore.
Nude beaches are common at parts of Ses Illetes, Llevant, and Migjorn. Completely normal.
Drive carefully — narrow roads, cyclists everywhere, blind curves. Go slow on the climb to La Mola.
Platja de Llevant can have strong currents on windy days. Cala Saona and Es Pujols are calmest for young kids.
Jellyfish can appear in August/September. Check beach flags.
Leave no trace — pack out everything you bring to the beach.
Looking for things to do?
Go check out my guide for the best free things to do as well as itineraries and travel tips to make your trip unforgettable.