I got this recommendation from my barista one morning, when I asked for a non-touristy spot for good kimchi. He warned me that it would be very local, that I would probably get stared at, and that speaking in English would not be an option. He was right. He was also right that it would be the best kimchi of my trip. Be prepared to use your translate app while you enjoy some of the best local cuisine and the kindest service (the lovely woman brought me extra sides every time I finished them).

(ps. avoid if you're sensitive to spice!)