Situated on the south side of the Arno River, the Basilica of Santo Spirito was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in the 15th century and since its establishment has been governed by the Friars of the Order of Saint Augustine.
To be quite honest, standing in the piazza looking up at its exterior, I found the church to be rather non- descript in its design and upon entering I was struck by how stark its interior was compared to the heavily decorated Italian Gothic churches I have been used to visiting. I would still recommend wandering around the basilica to appreciate the Renaissance architecture and artworks but tucked away and unbeknown to many, is a fascinating little cloister which ended up being one of my favourite dark locations during my time in Florence!
Whilst the admission to the church is free, along the left-hand side you will see an entrance where for a modest admission fee you can gain access to the 17th century cloister. The cloister is named ‘Chiostro dei Morti’ translating to ‘Cloister of the Dead’ and is beautifully designed with arched columns, a serene garden and walls lined with a variety of fascinating tombstones! Upon closer inspection you will find many examples of memento mori including illustrations and carvings of skulls, winged hourglasses, skeletons and scythes, along with other depictions of iconic funerary art. These historic weather-worn designs are part of a patchwork mosaic of 100s of memorial stones which cover all four walls of the cloister.
One of the most unique tombstones I found was that of ‘Marianna Cammilla’, which showcases the deceased on her death bed, with a flying skeleton holding a scythe looking down upon her. The carving is extremely emotive and is a stark reminder of the fleeting nature of one’s life.
The ancient basin has miraculously remained intact for hundreds of years and is still used by monks as a space which connects the different areas of the church. As well as visiting to admire the artwork, it’s a wonderful location to sit and reflect in a tranquil and calming setting.
