The Keys' greatest roadside ritual, mile marker 77.5: buy a bucket of baitfish, walk the dock, and hand-feed wild tarpon the size of your leg while pelicans run interference like feathered pickpockets. The tarpon explode out of the water; somebody in your group will scream; this is all part of it. Robbie's has grown a flea-market sprawl of shops and a waterfront kitchen around the docks, so stay for a fish-basket lunch under the fans. It's chaotic, touristy, beloved, and completely earns it. Go morning or late afternoon when the tarpon are hungriest and the tour buses aren't.