One of my favourite evening rituals is walking up to Portal Vell in Altea, the gateway to the upper old town. As the sun dips, the narrow cobblestones glow, the sound of guitars drifts down from balconies and the scent of jasmine and sea breezes mingle. It’s romantic, calm and full of character.

The old stone walls, souvenir and jewellery shops, tiny galleries… they all frame that timeless feeling. And there is one place I always stop: QVO Helado Artesano, just next to the gate. Their artisanal ice creams are superb (pistachio, turrón, seasonal fruits…) and it’s the perfect sweet end to an evening stroll through the old town. Whether music spills out from a café, streetlights cast golden shadows or you’re people-watching from a terrace, Portal Vell is one of those spots that makes you feel the heart of Altea.