La Gavarina D’Oro is where you (and everyone else) goes for Sunday lunch. The focus is on the flat bread called panigacci cooked on terracotta testine over a roaring wood fire. It's one of those pure, simple foods, consisting of flour, water and a little salt.

The restaurant is in Podenzana, the nexis of a tiny area dominated by this bread.

They will bring the panigacci out in a basket. You can have as many as you wish. Condiments include cheese, cold cuts, and if you ask perhaps a little pesto.

If you are a meat eater and you've come in the right season, you can get another food you've likely never had before: Chiodo di Maiale. It's cooked on the same terracotta testine but what it is might surprise you. If you watch someone make salami, they will add spices to freshly ground pork. Then, when you take a lunch break, they cook it in patties the size of the thick burger. Then they can safely see if the balance of spice and salt is correct.