Locanda Elena is a relatively new business. We waited until they'd had a while to get it together, and four of us ate very, very well there.

We at Sunday lunch, which is the best thing to do in the Lunigiana if you have a reservation. We ate outside on the patio, and the view was stupendous. Best of all, it's not expensive as you might think--and downright cheap if you're used to the prices in Rome or Venice.

They serve great seafood here. I recommend a bottle of the local Vermentino wine from the Colle di Luni, the hills of Luni to go with it. It, too, isn't expensive.