If you’re looking for a place where history comes to life, Jerash is it. Just a short drive from Amman, this ancient city is like stepping into the pages of a history book—and trust me, it’s one of those places you’ll never forget. As soon as I step into Jerash, I’m immediately transported back in time. The way the ruins stand tall and proud, you can almost hear the echoes of Roman chariots and crowds cheering during grand gladiator games.

Jerash was once one of the wealthiest and most important cities of the Roman Empire, and today it’s one of the best-preserved ancient sites in the world. As you walk through the Hadrian’s Arch, you’ll be following in the footsteps of emperors who passed through this very gate. The sense of grandeur is palpable—the arch is massive, and you can just imagine the celebrations that took place here.

One of my favorite things to do in Jerash is stroll down the Colonnaded Street. Lined with over 500 columns, it feels like you’re walking down a Roman runway, with towering columns on either side and the whole city laid out before you. It’s one of those spots where you can really imagine the hustle and bustle of the ancient marketplace. Look up, and you’ll see the well-preserved Temple of Artemis standing at the top of the hill, a testament to the city’s dedication to the gods.

And then there’s the Oval Plaza—I always find it impressive how well this huge open space has stood the test of time. Surrounded by columns and with the amphitheater in the background, it’s a perfect spot to sit and take in the view. Jerash’s incredible acoustics are still evident here, so if you’re lucky enough to be there when a performance or reenactment is taking place, you’ll feel the magic of this place firsthand.

Don’t miss the Roman Theater, either. This is where the city’s social life unfolded, and it’s still used for performances today. The theater seats thousands, and if you stand in the middle and speak, the sound bounces back at you in a way that feels like you’re part of something ancient and grand.

For a more peaceful moment, I love wandering off the main paths and exploring the quieter corners of Jerash. There’s something special about finding an old mosaic or an intricately carved pillar and imagining the stories behind them. Every corner has a story waiting to be discovered.

Hadrian’s Arch

As you enter Jerash, the first thing you’ll see is the Hadrian’s Arch, a monumental gate built to honor the Roman Emperor Hadrian, who visited the city in 129 AD. This massive archway stands at about 11 meters tall, with its intricately carved reliefs celebrating Hadrian’s visit. It’s a grand introduction to what’s to come, and you’ll be walking in the footsteps of emperors as you pass under it.

Colonnaded Street

One of the most iconic features of Jerash is the Colonnaded Street, a wide, column-lined road that stretches over 800 meters through the heart of the city. This ancient street was once a bustling marketplace, and you can still see remnants of the original shops and structures along its sides. The columns—over 500 of them—stand tall, creating a dramatic and stunning vista. As you walk down the street, take a moment to notice the narrower side streets that would’ve led to private homes, baths, and markets.

Oval Plaza

At the end of the Colonnaded Street, you’ll find the Oval Plaza, a stunning, open space surrounded by 56 columns, creating a perfect circle. This impressive plaza was once the city’s main public square, and it’s where people gathered for festivals, ceremonies, and social events. Today, it’s one of the best spots for taking in the scale of Jerash’s grandeur, offering a peaceful space to pause and reflect on the city’s history.

Temple of Artemis

Perched on a hill at the back of Jerash, the Temple of Artemis is one of the city’s crowning jewels. Originally dedicated to the Roman goddess of the hunt, Artemis, this grand temple is still awe-inspiring. The remains of its columns soar toward the sky, with a few still standing at impressive heights. The temple’s location offers incredible views of the entire city, and it’s a fantastic place to snap some photos of Jerash from above. The temple was originally adorned with beautiful statues and reliefs, and although much of it is in ruins today, you can still get a sense of its former grandeur.

Roman Theater

The Roman Theater is one of Jerash’s most impressive structures. It’s a large, semi-circular amphitheater that once seated around 3,000 spectators. It was used for various performances, from theatrical plays to gladiatorial contests. What’s amazing about this theater is its acoustic properties—if you stand in the center and speak, your voice carries perfectly to the upper seats. If you’re lucky, you may even get to see a live performance or musical event in this incredible space.

South Theater

Adjacent to the Roman Theater, the South Theater is a smaller but equally impressive structure. It’s less crowded than its larger counterpart, making it a great spot for those who want a more tranquil experience. The South Theater also features intricate carvings and a smaller stage, offering a glimpse into how the Romans would have staged performances in their day.

The Nymphaeum

The Nymphaeum, located near the Colonnaded Street, was a monumental public fountain dedicated to the nymphs, the female spirits of water. While most of the fountain is in ruins today, you can still make out its once-grand structure with its large pool and decorative features. It’s a peaceful spot, and I recommend pausing here for a moment to reflect on the engineering prowess of the Romans, who created such an elaborate system to supply water to the city.

The Temple of Zeus

The Temple of Zeus sits atop one of Jerash’s hills and provides a commanding view of the entire site. Although only the base and a few columns remain, it’s still one of the most iconic structures in the city. It’s believed that the temple was dedicated to Zeus, the king of the gods, and its elevated position means you can enjoy stunning panoramic views of the surrounding valley.

The Archaeological Museum

Don’t forget to visit the Jerash Archaeological Museum while you’re in the city. Located just inside the main entrance, the museum houses a fascinating collection of artifacts from the ancient city, including mosaics, sculptures, and pottery. Many of these pieces offer an even deeper look into Jerash’s rich Roman history, and I always recommend taking some time here to really understand the historical significance of the ruins you’re walking through.

The Hippodrome

The Hippodrome is where the ancient chariot races were held. While it’s not as well-preserved as some of the other structures, it’s still a fantastic site to visit. The grandstands and starting gates give you a sense of how large and exciting these races would have been. You may even see a reenactment or a small event taking place in the Hippodrome, which brings the space back to life.

Tips for Visiting Jerash

• Take Your Time: Jerash is huge, and there’s so much to explore! Don’t rush through it. Spend time wandering the quieter corners, and you might stumble upon lesser-known ruins that will make you feel like an explorer uncovering ancient treasures.

• Wear Comfortable Shoes: You’ll be walking on uneven surfaces, so comfy footwear is essential. Jerash is best enjoyed on foot, and you’ll want to be prepared for some uphill walks to reach higher vantage points like the Temple of Artemis.

• Stay Hydrated: Jordan can get hot, especially in the summer, so bring plenty of water and a hat to keep cool while exploring the ruins.

• Bring a Guidebook or Hire a Guide: While Jerash is well-marked, having a guide or a good guidebook can make your experience even more enriching. There’s a lot of history here, and a local guide can share stories and insights that might not be immediately obvious.