No trip to Banff is complete without at least knowing about the Upper Hot Springs — they're one of the most visited attractions in the park, after all, and the history behind them is genuinely interesting. It was the discovery of the hot springs in 1883 that sparked the creation of Banff National Park itself, making them the birthplace of the entire Canadian national parks system. If you'd like to learn more, it's better to head to the Cave & Basin National Historic Site.
The reality of a visit today, however, is a little more modest than the mythology. What you'll find is a large outdoor pool maintained at around 38°C, a change room and locker facility, and a small café. A note worth knowing before you go: the water is not purely geothermal — natural spring water is supplemented with municipal water to maintain consistent volume and temperature, which takes some of the romance out of it.
In winter, the experience is at its best — steam rising off the pool, snow on the mountains, cold air on your face. In summer, the pool gets crowded, the novelty fades quickly, and there are frankly better ways to spend your afternoon in Banff. Worth a visit once for the history alone, but don't build your day around it.