How I'd spend 3 days in Milford Sound

An overview of Milford Sound

Milford Sound (Piopiotahi) is one of the most beautiful corners of New Zealand - and the world, for that matter!

Once called the "Unofficial 8th Wonder of the World," Milford Sound is touted as "New Zealand's most stunning natural attraction." When we visited, I felt dwarfed by the sheer sight of the iconic Fiordland mountains. No matter how often I relive our trip, I am constantly overwhelmed by how spectacular it was. 

Milford Sound is an outdoor lover's dream, full of lush rainforests, towering glacier peaks, waterfalls and alpine lakes everywhere you look. But it's not all hiking. You'll also find luxury experiences galore, boutique accommodations and world-class dining.

I think everyone should visit here once in their lifetime. But only a few people come for more than a day trip. I'm here to tell you that you MUST stay overnight. There's so much to do; when you're unsure if you'll be back here again, you don't want to rush a second of your time here.

Milford Sound is home to some of the most impressive waterfalls on earth. There are two huge waterfalls: Lady Bowen Falls and Stirling Falls. However, Milford Sound is one of the wettest areas in New Zealand (and sees a ridiculous 182 days of rain per year), so you're guaranteed to see lots of small waterfalls trickling down the mountains, too. You'll get up close and personal with them on boat trips, star gaze beneath mountains, wake up to bird song and walk along some of the most popular hiking tracks in the world. 

You can visit Milford Sound at any time throughout the year. But the best time to visit is from August to October. This way, you've got a higher chance of seeing the breathtaking waterfalls that come alive when it rains, snow on the peaks of the mountains, lower costs and fewer tourists. 

Today, the drive from Queenstown to Milford Sound will take approximately 3.5-4 hours non-stop. But, I recommend allowing around 6 hours to fully enjoy your experience.

Get a head start on the crowds and start your day early with breakfast at FergBaker.

Ferg Baker opens at 6 am every morning and is an iconic Queenstown institution. They make great barista coffee and to-die-for pastries. I've dreamt of their chocolate-almond croissant for over a year, but if you're after a savoury breakfast, you can't go past one of their buttery, flaky pies.

Steak and anything is my favourite, but they also have flavours like bacon and egg, pork belly and curried chicken jalfrezi. What's a trip to New Zealand without a stop at a bakery... or 7?

Leave Queenstown at 06:30 am and drive approximately 40 minutes to the first lookout on this itinerary: Devil's Staircase Lookout Point.

After you've visited the viewpoint, head to The Coffee Bomb in Garson, they serve barista-made coffee, sandwiches, light meals and cakes which would be perfect for fuelling up for a big walk this afternoon.

Then drive to Mossburn and fill up your car/campervan at the Mossburn NPD. Mossburn has (by far) the cheapest fuel on this road trip, and it is always around 20-30 cents per litre cheaper than Te Anau and Queenstown.

There is only one fuel station in Milford Sound, and it's eye-wateringly expensive, so try to avoid that if possible.

Note: You should aim to arrive in Mossburn by 9 am.

Leave Mossburn and keep driving for 40 minutes until you reach Te Anau. Te Anau is often referred to as the "Gateway to Fiordland." It's a cute little town full of shops, supermarkets, cafes and petrol stations.

Te Anau has a FreshChoice supermarket, which is the last major supermarket on the drive to Milford Sound. There are no shops in Milford Sound, and food at the cafes is very expensive, so make sure you stop here to grab some groceries.

If you have time in Te Anau and are searching for things to do, my recommendations are:

• Walk alongside Lake Te Anau (the second largest lake in NZ)

• Tour the Te Anau Glowworm Caves (from $135pp)

• Have lunch at Sandfly Cafe

From Te Anau, head onto the Milford Road (State Highway 94) into Fiordland. SH94 is a 119km paved road into the heart of Fiordland National Park and without a doubt one of the most scenic drives in the world. In fact, I think that the road into Milford Sound is just as gobsmacking as the sound itself.

The road cuts through mountains, ancient beech forests and glacier-carved valleys. Spend the rest of your morning soaking in the views along your drive and stopping at a few of the many (many) lookouts.

It's worth noting that the road is winding and can get busy, particularly in the summer months, so leave yourself enough time to take the drive slowly.

Keep an eye on the weather as it can change quickly. If you are travelling in the winter, carry snow chains and make sure you know how to fit them properly before you start your journey. If you're not confident driving yourself, book a tour departing from Queenstown or Te Anau so you can sit back, relax and enjoy the views.

To keep up to date with the Milford Road conditions, visit: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/projects/sh94-milford-road/sh94-milford-road-status/

Note: Don't worry if you don't have time to visit all the lookouts listed below. On your last day, you'll drive back along this road to Queenstown, so you'll have time to visit the ones you missed then.

At noon, pull into The Divide carpark ready to hike Key Summit. In my opinion, Key Summit is one of the best short-day hikes in New Zealand. It's part of the iconic Routeburn Track and takes around 3 hours to complete. When I did this hike, it was September; the track was covered in snow and felt like being inside a snow globe!

Note: I personally think that hiking Key Summit is only good on a clear or semi-clear day. If Fiordland is covered in clouds, you won't be able to see much from the top. If that's the case, you could opt to hike Lake Marian today instead (listed on Day 3 of this itinerary), spend more time at the lookout points along Milford Road or head into Milford Sound early.

After hiking Key Summit, jump back in the car and drive 40 minutes into the heart of Milford Sound.

This stretch of road is equally beautiful as the first, and there is so much to see and do. But as you've had such a big day, I recommend saving the must-see viewpoints for Day 3 of this itinerary as you head back toward Queenstown.

Tonight, you'll stay at the Milford Sound Lodge. The Milford Sound Lodge offers chalets (if you've rented a car) or a premium campsite where you can enjoy cosy, luxurious accommodation in the heart of Fiordland. 

If you would like a budget-friendly option, drive 15 minutes up the road from Key Summit to the Cascade Creek DOC campsite. This campsite offers gobsmacking views of the mountains for just $15pp/per night. There are no showers at this campground, so it's only suitable if your van has a shower or you're happy "roughing it."

Sandflies are notorious in this part of the valley, so bring bug spray, long pants or shirts, and avoid wearing black if possible.

Note: if you're staying at Cascade Creek, prepare to get up early to drive into Milford Sound and catch your cruise through the fiords at 10 am. 

If you stay at Cascade Creek campsite and want to keep exploring, there are a few trails around Cascade Creek campsite, like the Lake Gunn Nature Walk. Otherwise, relax, crack open a beer, and eat your dinner beneath the peaks of Fiordland’s mountains - you've earned it! 

One of the last hurdles before you arrive in Milford Sound is the Homer Tunnel. 

We waited for about 20 minutes, but there's so much to see from the car window that you won't feel like you're wasting any time. 

While you're waiting, watch for naughty Kea (our native alpine parrots), who will often come and say hello!

Drive another 20 minutes from Homer Tunnel before arriving in Milford Sound. I have no words to describe how beautiful this place is.

You can check into Milford Sound Lodge any time from 2 pm. If you've followed this itinerary, you should arrive at 4 pm/5 pm, but it may be later depending on how long you've stopped for lunch, at the lookout points, etc. In the summer, it gets dark after 8 pm! So you're in no rush.

Tonight I recommend rewarding yourself after a big day with dinner and a glass of New Zealands finest at Pio Pio Restaurant. Then fall into bed ready for another big day tomorrow.