I've been going to the Bar Giardino for 20 years. Its a friendly place, you're a local if you've been there three times, and there is a variety of things to munch on in their pastry case, including tiny sandwiches and you can always get a local vegetable pie called Torta d' erbe.

After 20 years, you'd also expect some changes. As I type, the garden is getting an upgrade and when the barriers come down, the outdoor dining area will be a great place to stroll and wander. Yeah, there's a rather plastic fountain to replace the old, cracked, but gracefully aging one--but you can't have everything.

Look to the chalkboards for a list of local wines they have by the glass, and for the wide array of cocktails they make with artisan spirits from all over Italy. Come in early evening for aperitivo time and do some people watching. Your vacation doesn't have to be frantic all the time.